Cicale

Cicale, Ibiza Restaurant Review

I like people who use organic produce because it is good rather than just so they can print it all over their menus and websites. Cicale uses as much organic produce as possible on its menu yet the word doesn’t appear once. When they can’t get organic they go to the best fruit and veg stall on the island – Maria the Fruit Feeler in Santa Eulalia. Their fish comes from the best fish monger and they use the best meat available. I know this because it’s where I get my stuff from. Sourcing quality produce here is almost a full time occupation in itself.
 
Seated in the lovely garden eating area as you read through the uncomplicated and appealing menu we were presented with a really good tapenade, heavy with capers and pine nuts, served with fresh homemade focaccia sprinkled with rock salt and rosemary. The cuisine is Italian with a modern edge and the emphasis is on freshness and light.
 
Smiling Michela, the owner and welcoming hostess, suggested we try the Caprino salad and courgette lasagne to start. She was very excited because she had found the perfect cheese she had been looking for in order to make the salad exactly as she wanted it. Caprini is a soft rindless goats cheese with a very subtle moreishness to it. The salad of rocket, radicchio, cherry tomatoes, Caprino and sliced apple is dressed in the kitchen and a mouthful of this with all its different components takes you through as series of opposites – tart but smooth, bitter and sweet, smooth and crisp.
 
The lasagne came as individual layers of homemade pasta with courgettes and green beans. A very light dish featuring no discernable bechamel, it is baked until the edges crisp up and the cheese melts. Fantastic. The accompanying dry La Scolca Gavi made you just want to start the whole thing over again. And again…
 
Our main course, turbot with chickpeas was a little disappointing in that the fillets were on the thin side and slightly overcooked. The steak however, a really good portion of Argentinian beef fillet, was as good as it gets, served with the ever popular balsamic sauce and some really good chunky chips. I usually find these fat chips underwhelming and in no way superior to thinner chips but today, these were delicious. Must be them Ibiza potatoes again.
 
I was interested to see that salami was on the dessert menu but it turned out to be a chocolate roll, not spiced meat. Probably a good thing. The plate looked as if Joan Miro, Catalunya’s mad squiggler artist, was in the kitchen painting  – slashes of yellow, red, chocolate and white with rounds of smooth, bitter chocolate studded with nuts and biscuit. Naughty. But NICE.

The Café Cicale is a must for anyone who doesn’t really do desserts but likes coffee. Served in a large Martini glass, it is just Illy coffee and ice whizzed up together till it froths. Quenches your thirst, hits you with coffee and generally just perks you up with delight.

Date we ate: 25 July, 2009

The very large meal for two with a bottle of good wine and excellent coffees came to €125.

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