Formentera: Magical nights

The scent of night blooming flowers floats on the light breeze as it rustles the treetops and causes the wild sea grass on the sand dunes to sway elegantly. Formentera nights are a heavenly escape from the hedonism across the waters. You just need to get off the boat and find a bed for the night… It all begins at the bewitching hour of dusk. Beachgoers head ashore to the island’s chiringuitos, bars and restaurants with sandy feet and salty hair, swept up in the romance as the sky turns from blue to gold, pink, orange, gold and deep purple. A sense of peace envelops the island, from the A-list haven of Illetes and the sunset lookout at Cala Saona to the endless stretch of Migjorn; all the way up to the hills of La Mola and over to the lighthouse at Cap de Barbaria and beyond. Another day in paradise has come to an end.

While the day may have ended, the night is just beginning and although nights in Formentera may not be as wild or as varied as Ibiza, they offer many different experiences. For some, come sunset, it’s time to head home – to your villa, apartment, beach bungalow or hotel – and hit the hay early, revelling in the peaceful, long night of sleep ahead. For others, it signifies the start of a decadent dining experience and here the island’s culinary stars shine as bright as those in the sky. Spending the night in Formentera opens up a whole new world of gastronomic possibilities. While many associate the island with long lazy beach lunches, paella, seafood and sangria, after dark all the dining action takes place inland and takes a more creative turn. Discover high-end dining with a Michelin star (the illustrious Can Dani), alfresco farm to table in the middle of an organic garden (A Mi Manera), deluxe Mediterranean feasts (Can Carlos), conscious cravings (Bufambo) and all the Italian you can eat – from pizza by the slice in roadside eateries and hearty classics like mama used to make to incredible haute cuisine creations.

When the final digestifs have been downed and the aromatic coffee has provided that much needed after dinner perk up, it’s time to head off into the Formentera night. Home to bed or out for an après-dinner stroll? A quick nightcap or dancing all night long? The beauty of Formentera nightlife is it has all of this and more. If the allure of a midnight stroll is calling your name, the charming wooden walkways weaving their way between the sand dunes are softly lit and provide the perfect platform, while the cobblestone village squares also hold a sense of old-school romance. The villages of Formentera truly come alive at night. In Sant Ferran, stroll the night market – filled with art, jewellery and handcrafts – where there is plenty of opportunity for retail therapy, as the adjacent open-air bars and restaurants hum with the lively buzz of people. Nearby, Sant Francesc often has live bands performing in the square between restaurants and bars – all local festivals are celebrated here and it’s a hive of social activity. Flower Power. Swing festivals. Jazz festivals. Blues festivals. Balearic traditions. There’s always a reason to get involved.

Back towards the seaside, the most buzzing area of all is Es Pujols – the only part of the island to be home to nightclubs and a bustling seaside promenade. True – this is perhaps the most touristic area, however if you want to dance ‘til dawn, Tipic and Pineta are the places to be. International DJs do flow through Formentera, but are generally more underneath the radar. For example, legendary Ibiza party Cocoon have held a residency at Tipic for the past six seasons and have had guests including Sven Väth and Richie Hawtin, but the party itself still remains relatively underground. When you do finally head home, it’s easy to fall asleep as you listen to the sounds of silence. If you’re staying by the beach, leaving a window open will allow the sounds of the waves lapping the shore help you drift off to dreamland. If you’re in the campo, you’ll hear those treetops rustling and perhaps some singing cicadas on a hot summer night. The peace and quiet is a blissful respite from the ‘real world’ – no cars, no foot traffic, no footsteps from the apartment upstairs, no loud music thumping in the distance. All is calm. All seems right with the world.

The rise of the island’s art scene

When I first moved to Ibiza, over a decade ago (how time flies!) I remember thinking that the island was distinctly lacking in art and culture – dance music culture and billboards aside of course – and that I couldn’t find any art at all, let alone art I liked. Fast forward to 2017 and the island’s art scene has gone from bleak to burgeoning to booming, with a host of gallery spaces, pop-up exhibitions, festivals and visiting artists showcasing works in Ibiza. Now, when it comes to looking for art I like, I feel like I am spoiled for choice.

Most recently, it was the work of renowned Venezuelan artist Diana Gomez that caught my attention – her amazing FREE WOMEN exhibition is currently being held at Pikes, in the lush green hills of San Antonio. Here’s what the press release (and numerous other magazines and websites) will tell you about the exhibition: It’s a feminist-driven and autobiographical show, made up of outdoor installations that are life-sized portraits of some amazing women (including some seriously famous faces), inspired by the artist’s own life and including many that have been used in famous brand advertising (think Nike, Lancome and Virgin). An ode to female empowerment. Sounds good, right? Here’s what you can’t glean from a PR statement or any generic description of these works. The impact this exhibition has on you is jaw-dropping, from the very first photo you lay eyes on. There is such power in these photos, such drama, such emotion. Each work is presented in a lightbox, placed all over the grounds of the hotel, making viewing the collection a little like a trip down the rabbit hole – from lining the walls of the hot pink tennis court and the famous poolside terrace to being juxtaposed against the lush green lawns and even perfectly placed at the bottom of the iconic Pikes swimming pool. It’s adventurous, erotic, sensual, striking, unexpected, challenging, provocative and seriously, seriously impressive.

It was Gomez’s intention to create an exhibition with a difference – the London-based photographer steered away from traditional galleries, knowing they didn’t resonate with her own philosophy or style. Ibiza is an island bursting with creativity, and with many creative women at that, and with one of the island’s most creative faces behind Pikes (co-founder and creative director Dawn Hindle), the perfect setting was right here all along. Now, as I said earlier, I don’t know much about art so I am not going to attempt to critique it here, but I do know what I like and now I can happily say Diana Gomez is on that list. Limited edition prints of some of the works are for sale (onsite at Pikes and also on Diana Gomez’s website, for those who can’t make it to the island to view the exhibition personally), as are the outdoor freestanding billboard works and a percentage of the price will be donated to the Teenage Cancer Trust – meaning this is also art with a heart, for Gomez has long been a supporter of charity.

Pikes has long been known for supporting artists; from the amazing hand-painted Rory Dobner murals on the wall and the striking neon installations throughout the hotel, to prints by local photographer Jerome and exceptionally styled rooms by Rockett St George, it’s no surprise it was recently named one of the top six art hotels in the world by the prestigious Country & Town House. The introduction of Diana Gomez’s works to the grounds has cemented its place on the island’s art scene. If you’re here before September 30, 2017, you should make it a must-visit on your Ibiza holiday itinerary – by the way, it’s free! Another of this year’s huge contributions to Ibiza’s art scene came courtesy of renowned New York art collector Lio Malca – who is also a long-term island visitor. Having taken over La Nave, the old salt mill warehouse space at the very end of Las Salinas a little over two years ago, this year he injected it with a serious dose of modern art, bringing four enormous installations by the late great US artist Keith Haring to the space: the famously immersive Pop Shop Tokyo, an untitled five-panel mural that was originally an iconic work in the Bay Area of San Francisco, Channel Surf Club – a mural on a container that was once used to house surfboards in Belgium and a sculpture depicting a breakdancer in a headstand.

Entrance to La Nave is also free, as one of Malca’s primary objectives was to give the general public more access to the world’s best art – he strongly believes it should not be the domain of the rich. He sees the ongoing development of La Nave (in addition to some other outdoor spaces) as a place where he can give thanks to the people of an island which has given him so much joy over many years. And for that, Señor Malca, we salute you! Educating little ones about the importance of art is also part of Malca’s island initiative. During the summer, kids’ workshops are held at La Nave, where children participate in street art classes with renowned artists such as HOSH, and can play amongst the world class installations of Keith Haring rather than being held at arm’s length from the art. Art collector Guy Laliberté, founder of Cirque du Soleil, co-founder and owner of HEART Ibiza and another long-term island dweller is another who believes children should be indoctrinated into the world of art from an early age. His own Ibiza Arts Project – which includes the art space of the same name in Ibiza’s industrial area, on the outskirts of Ibiza town and Lune Rouge Sculpture Park on the grounds of his private estate in Cala Conta – invites children from local schools to visit the spaces and learn more about the creativity and genius behind many of the truly incredible works on display.

Ibiza Arts Project is open to one and all, with a rotating roster of big name international artists exhibiting all year round. At this point in time, Lune Rouge is a private sculpture park (with entrance by invitation only, such as with the aforementioned local schools), however one sculpture, Time & Space – The Speed of Light by Australian sculptor Andrew Rogers is set off the grounds of the villa and accessible to one and all. You may have heard it referred to as ‘Ibiza-henge’, as the piece bears a similar appearance to the famous Stonehenge and forms a Fibonacci sequence. On the winter solstice, groups make the (easy!) pilgrimage to its Cala Conta cliffside location to watch in awe as the sun strikes the 23-carat gold tip of the highest column. Another must-do to add to your Ibiza list. Laliberté has plans to relocate the sculpture park to another island location and open it to the public in the future, however if you do want a sneak peek in the meantime, pick up a copy of the latest edition of WHITE Ibiza Magazine, where we were fortunately given access (with a camera!) to this amazing space. With some sculptures towering at a few storeys high, another made out of hundreds of intricate pieces crafted together to create an almost natural looking tree and even more showing Laliberté’s penchant for works with a definite sense of humour, it is at once humbling and inspiring to be surrounded by such great work.

This is just a snippet of the art on display in Ibiza these days. We also have the annual Urban in Ibiza festival at Agroturismo Atzaró – one of the original champions of the island’s art scene – and the cutting-edge Bloop Festival, which (amongst many other things) has seen an array of eye-catching murals popping up on formerly bland walls and spaces all across the island. My personal favourite are the two colourful pieces by Mexican street artists Spaik in the dark tunnel that connects Los Molinos and Ibiza town. Fortunately for me, I get to pass by on a daily basis (it’s the last remaining free parking area in Ibiza town – but shhh! Don’t tell anyone) and I am constantly amazed at how these seemed to spring up overnight – the first in 2016, the second just a few months ago. Then there are the gallery spaces, truly brimming with so much creativity from Ibiza, mainland Spain and all over the world. Parra y Romero, Galeria Micus, the all-new LC Gallery, B12 The Gallery and of course, the Museo de Arte Contemporaneo in Dalt Vila.

There are so many up and coming local artists now being given the opportunity to show their works in public spaces such as OD Hotel Ocean Drive, Gran Hotel Montesol or El Hotel Pacha among many others. And then, if you’re lucky enough, you may be invited inside the homes of some of the island’s most highly regarded art collectors – from original old masters to Andy Warhol, Murakami and beyond, the calibre of art in Ibiza is well and truly world class. Of course, as much as I confess to like it, not much of this art is within my humble budget. I mean, not only do I not have the space to display a Jenny Holzer or a Diana Gomez in my little apartment, I also don’t have the means (yet!). But one thing is for sure – I’m extremely grateful that thanks to a handful of visionary island taste makers, I no longer have to get on a plane to enjoy them.

2manymobiles

Is it just me, or is it getting a bit much watching Ibiza life unfold through the mobile phone of the person standing in front of you? I mean, I am all for technology, I embrace social media and I have even taken far too many selfies with my cats to mention, but at some point, there’s got to be a limit. I think it’s safe to say society – not just here on the island but all around the world – has crossed a line and now as we go about our daily lives there are just TOO MANY MOBILES. But now we’ve reached this point, is there any chance of going back? This thought was first prompted when I saw the succession of photos of poor (well certainly not financially poor!) Conor McGregor in Ibiza this week. Now, before anyone gets defensive, I want to state that I can clearly see he likes being in the public eye. He walks with a certain swagger. He dresses (well, when he has a shirt on) with, err, panache. He talks big in front of cameras. And sure, once you’ve become a public figure, fame and recognition are all part of the package. But does he really want in excess of 300 mobile phones pointed at him while he’s standing on a dance floor in Ibiza? Or standing in a queue waiting to get inside a venue? I think not. Well, at least not after the first 30 seconds anyway.

I would say 80-percent of the people in that venue DID NOT have their eyes on Conor McGregor. They had their eyes on their mobile phone screens, watching Conor McGregor. Or even worse – they just aimed their phones in his direction and watched the footage back later, while gossiping with their friends that they’d just seen Conor McGregor. (Side note: great Fendi slides Conor. Hmm. Now I guess I wouldn’t have seen them without all those people taking your pics now, would I?) It’s hard to tell exactly from the pictures, but it looks as though McGregor has at least five bodyguards surrounding him at all times – despite the fact he can clearly handle himself physically. As I saw them forming a wall, almost like a human shield around him at times, I couldn’t help but think how difficult it must be just to interact with your friends – like a normal human being in an Ibiza club – when you’ve got five giants blocking your view?

Just last night I saw a similar thing happen in the Wild Corner – aka, the toilets – at Hï Ibiza. There I was, at the side of the DJ booth minding my own business when I got completely swept out of the way by another wall of giant security men (around seven seriously big dudes) as they swept their client into the side entrance of the booth so she could dance without fear of the general public making any physical contact. They proceeded to block the entire side wall and corner of the booth, so the general public couldn’t even get a look at their client… however a few hundred strategically held mobile phones quickly determined it was Naomi Campbell. And then the mobile madness continued. (Another side note: Naomi was much smaller than I’d expected her to be.) Meanwhile, over in the Pikes camp earlier this week, it couldn’t have been more different. Our lady Kate (Moss, not Middleton) was spotted having a lovely time with her close pals Jaime Winston and Jade Jagger after the Primal Scream gig earlier in the evening – with just one bodyguard on hand in case of emergencies. And when I say spotted – I mean just that. People saw them with their very own eyes, clocked it, mentioned it and moved right along – because Pikes is the kind of place where everyone is so consumed with having their own fun, throwing a couple of celebrities into the mix isn’t going to distract them. (Last side note: There was indeed one Pikes-goer who perhaps was unaware that it’s un-PC to wave iPhones in famous people’s faces – rather than receiving high fives from their friends for their efforts, a certain Pikes staffer swiftly snatched the phone and deleted the offending images. Hurrah!)

Go to any Ibiza nightclub these days and the ‘front rows’ of the dance floor are no longer full of ravers dancing as if their lives depended on it. They are full of people holding their phones up towards the DJs – photos, videos, Shazam-ing tracks, Insta-storytelling, Facebook live-ing and more. Go to the toilets and girls (I can’t say I have any experience in the men’s!) aren’t making friends with those in the queues next to them anymore – they’re just trout pouting and taking the obligatory #toiletselfie. Survey a restaurant and you’ll see tables full of people with their heads down, uploading their latest picture of their meal to social media (#foodporn). Where has all the human interaction gone? If you’re just experiencing Ibiza through the lens of an iPhone, are you really experiencing Ibiza at all? Some would argue yes – that this is the very definition of ‘experiencing’ in this day and age. But I have to disagree. There is no photographic evidence of some of the best moments of my life (like that time I danced and drank champagne with Prince William and the former Ms Middleton at Pacha) – because I was genuinely experiencing those moments, not spending hours of my life trying to visually craft the perfect moment for an audience. Of course, I also understand wanting to preserve memories – cameras are a wonderful invention! But surely, they just don’t need to be in your hand all night, every night. After all, what are you going to do with all those photos once you’re back home anyway? In the case of amateur paparazzi style shots of supermodels and fighters, the quality of your iPhone snap isn’t good enough to on-sell it to a newspaper or gossip mag. In the case of trout pout toilet selfies – has anyone actually ever printed one or framed it and sent it to their mother? Food photos – ditto? Is the sound quality of all those videos you took of your favourite DJ playing your favourite song in your favourite club good enough to hook up to your home speaker and rave around the house to? I think not. Now on one hand, if you get home from your holiday, and you print out those photos or watch those videos every night and they genuinely make you happy, who am I to judge? But on the other hand – and right now I’m reverting to my original point and talking about pics that prove you were once in close proximity to someone famous and their wall of bodyguards, who you never actually met – what is the point and what does it prove? If everyone would just think, before raising their mobiles, I bet the world would be a remarkably much better place. Of course, should Conor McGregor actually want to take a selfie with me, I’m right here…

Self-care is not a hashtag

“That doesn’t mean you can be an asshole though,” he clarifies, taking a swig at a steaming matcha latte. What he’s talking about is self-care. Not as a handy hashtag for when you cane it in yoga or book a spa visit. He’s not talking about #selfcare. He’s talking about intention and realisation. But with a certain dose of coy, gritty comedy thrown in. We all get lost in the labyrinth of wellbeing, forgetting the basic element keeping everything running – physically and emotionally – is food. There’s too much going on, running here, rushing there, pinging phones, waiting for emails. And here in Ibiza, it’s also really, really hot. The first error in that downward spiral is eating anything we can find – something fast and quick. In compromising self-care, we end up sacrificing more than our health and mood – we sacrifice our ability to serve others.

“The ultimate goal of self-care is that it leads to service,” says Cliff. “Doing things for others feels really good. That’s where self-care should end up – helping others. It doesn’t mean you won’t complain about it on the way or forget sometimes. Or feel like a hypocrite occasionally.” The first pillar of taking care is eating well. There are no compromises at Wild Beets, where everything is aimed at maximum health benefits and prepared in a way that’s hard to achieve at home. Things happen behind the kitchen door that you won’t necessarily notice within the vibrant dishes on the menu. Vegetables are fermented (good for the digestive system), nuts and grains are soaked (releasing important minerals), and milks (rice, oat and almond) are made from scratch. Juices are cold-pressed (making the nutrients more readily available) and super charged elixirs are added to boost everything from the immune system to your mood.

It’s not just about eating healthy and delectable food. “The menu is plant-based, organic, cruelty free cuisine prepared via methods based on scientific evidence,” Cliff explains. “We never sacrifice the moral foundation of the restaurant.” Even in the height of a crazy day, you can stop by Wild Beets and get exactly what your body, mind and conscience needs. Good, homemade, plant-based, nutrient-rich deliciousness. Breakfast, lunch, dinner, snacks and juices – it’s all there waiting to help you take care of yourself. The Wild Beets offshoot, iPurify, provides cold-pressed juice cleanses either for home or with the guidance of the expert team. Or you can just grab a juice from the chiller for an instant, healthy pick-me-up. Naturally, everyone needs a little sweetness occasionally. Decadence is permitted and comes in the shape of beautiful raw desserts and cheeky homemade truffles.

Most parents are familiar with the age worn trope of getting kids to eat healthy food. The Wild Beets kids’ menu takes all the pain away serving up child friendly dishes that follow the same principles as the rest of the menu. The menu is so popular amongst the little ones that grown-ups are often caught sneaking nibbles from their children’s plates. It’s never too early to show kids how to take care of their health. While other establishments close down for the winter, Wild Beets is open all year round. “We hold it together throughout summer and winter so you don’t have to,” laughs Cliff. “If life catches up on you, come here. We do the hard work for you.” And in that lies the root of the Wild Beets reason for being. If self-care is ultimately about service, then Wild Beets does self-care by providing it for others.

Ethical Elemis treatments at Open Spa

Housed within the five-star Grand Luxe surrounds of Ibiza Gran Hotel, the soothing and naturally-lit treatment cabins set the perfect pitch for a rejuvenating experience using the latest in pioneering products and processes, including exquisite ethical skincare by ELEMIS. Open Spa chooses the ELEMIS range for a series of full body treatments, all carefully designed to install an overall feeling of wellness and restore balance and vitality to the skin, face and body. At the forefront of skincare technology, ELEMIS have been creating award-winning products for over 25 years and in 2017, were crowned winners at the CEW awards (also known as the Oscars of the Beauty Industry) so you know you’re in the best of hands.

The first stage of each the treatment is arriving to the beautiful welcome and changing areas of Open Spa, where you pampering and preening is second nature to the team of highly experienced therapists. All Open Spa guests are invited to arrive at least an hour before the appointment itself, leaving plenty of time to relax, unwind, change into a plush bathrobe and enjoy a delectable dip into the water, in the hydrotherapy centre just located next to the treatment rooms. Once feeling suitable mellow, your dedicated therapist guides you into the airy and aesthetically calming private cabin to begin your 80-minute treatment. The ELEMIS philosophy subscribes to a dialogue-centric approach to each individual clients personal skincare needs. By understanding your lifestyle, then using facial mapping technology, your therapist can personally prescribe and fulfil your unique and individual skincare requirements, which are changing constantly along with life’s demands.

The Face & Body Sensation therapy uses hot stones for a deeper than deep tissue massage, both invigorating and relaxing – the ergonomic Balinese stones sending warm waves through the most stubborn of muscle aches and pains whilst the skin is intensely moisturised with ELEMIS Frangipani Monoi Body Oil. This is combined with a luxurious facial massage and anti-ageing treatment to fight against wrinkles, improve the softness of the skin and restore its former youthful radiance. The Garden of England Rose Restore begins with a full body exfoliation, using the advanced bio-technology of the ELEMIS range matched to your skin type. Afterwards, your therapist applies a nourishing body wrap with a unique trio of fragrant and therapeutic rose, camellia and poppy seed oils to hydrate the skin and increase its elasticity all over leaving it deliciously scented and exquisitely supple. Absolutely heavenly. One of the signature ELEMIS treatments is the Couture Touch – a reinvigorating experience for face and body that combines a completely personalised facial treatment with an anti-stress back massage, ideal for achieving balance and feeling revitalised. While your body unwinds, your skin springs back to life thanks to an advanced bio-tech technology facial, using high-performance formulas that pass the strictest of ELEMIS testing procedures before being released to market.

Whichever treatment you choose from the ELEMIS range at Open Spa, you can feel confident that the combination of natural ingredients and the latest technology and techniques come together perfectly. Powerful marine and plant actives coupled with intricately-blended aromatics form the foundations for all ELEMIS products, all of which are ethically sourced and extracted, making the treatments as good for the environment as they are for your skin. Once your treatment is over, the restful space of the Open Spa is yours once again to recline, relax and recover in your own time. Enjoy the hydrotherapy circuit followed by a luxurious shower, before finally relaxing with a cup of herbal tea in the plush lounges of the welcome area. Your ELEMIS experience doesn’t necessarily have to be over when you leave Open Spa, with an extensive range of skincare products also available to purchase over the counter. Your therapist can recommend the perfect products to suit your skin types and need, meaning the results of your treatment will continue to glow long after you’ve left the spa.

Sailing off into the sunset

Sailing off into the Ibiza sunset is one of the most romantic visions associated with boating on the white isle. For most day-trippers however, it’s only a fraction of the experience as most Formentera charters are required by law to return to port before sundown. It’s still nothing short of magical: sitting on the bow and watching the blazing ball of light slowly sink over the beautiful rolling hills of Ibiza as you ease closer and closer to the island, but for a true sunset sailing experience, you need to go straight to the source. Ibiza features three main ports – Ibiza town, Santa Eulalia and San Antonio – and many charter boats moored in the west coast’s beautifully redeveloped harbour are given an additional 45 minutes after the sunset to return to their berths. This means you can spend the afternoon exploring the island’s most beautiful sunset locations before choosing your favourite spot to anchor up and watch the iconic Ibiza sunset in all its blazing glory from the ultimate front row seat.

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Atlantis

There’s a sunset to suit everyone and no matter what type of experience you’re seeking, you’ll find it in Ibiza. From the west, you can head south to experience the magic of Es Vedra and Atlantis – the spectacular, otherworldly rock formations that are rumoured to be the source of Ibiza’s mysterious energy that truly light up as the sun goes down. The crystal-clear waters of Cala Tarida are another great place to anchor up, stopping off at the stylish Cotton Beach Club for sundowners should the mood for cocktails strike. Sailing back towards the traditional sunset, there are plenty of cool cliffs and caves to be found between Cala Conta and Cala Bassa – ideal places to stop and play with grown up water toys such as Seabobs, wakeboards and even inflatables as the sun creeps closer to the sea beside you. At Cala Conta, the sunset hour is truly bewitching – a laidback, bohemian affair with the striking silhouette of Sunset Ashram perched on the cliff while the stunning rocky coastline reflects the burnt orange rays of the sun, perfectly complemented by water so turquoise it could be the Caribbean.

Cala Conta

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If you choose to head north of San Antonio, you’ll discover bays and beaches so quiet and tranquil, you’ll instantly forget the hustle and bustle of the nearby tourist town. The gorgeous coves of Cala Gracioneta and Cala Salada offer incredible snorkelling and swimming conditions: calm, clear and with plenty of underwater marine life to check out – great for family days out on the boat. Nearby, the incredible flat rock formations that jut out of the cliff face at Punta Galera provide the perfect diving and cliff jumping platforms plus places for quiet reflection. Sailing around this section of the west coast reminds you just how impressive Mother Nature really can be. Undoubtedly the most famous sunset experience in Ibiza is the iconic San Antonio sunset strip. While the area – a short promenade connecting multiple restaurants and bars directly opposite the sunset – rose to fame in the late 80s as the birthplace of chillout music, these days it’s considered the island’s premier pre-party destination. Pop the champagne and pull up outside Café del Mar, Café Mambo or Savannah to listen to beats provided by the world’s best DJs (or your own music from onboard speakers) as you applaud the magical sunset moment. Just think of your boat as the ultimate VIP booth, with no queues to get drinks or pesky crowds blocking your sunset view.

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Marina Botafoch

Depending on your mood, after you disembark, you can keep the party going or float back blissfully to your hotel and villa – the sunset having been the perfect end to a perfect day. Better yet, why not book a charter that offers an overnight stay? Many of the boats available for charter feature a private cabin for a romantic overnight experience, while larger vessels offer multiple cabins for group holidays with a difference – your very own floating boutique hotel. Dine on deck beneath the stars, then let the Mediterranean Sea gently rock you to sleep before waking up to an all-new island perspective each day. The longer you stay at sea, the more sunsets you can experience – in addition to the west coast of Ibiza, there are also the fabulous sunset views from Illetes or Cala Saona in Formentera. Minus the pressure of having to sail back to Ibiza on time, you can well and truly relax as you kick back on deck and soak up the sunset vibes in true Balearic style.

Last night Paco Fernandez saved my life

Last night, Ibiza’s very own Flamenco hero saved my life. Well… it wasn’t like he donned a super hero cape and jumped tall buildings in a single bound or anything like that, but I feel like he rescued me from a fate that would have seen me scratching, itching, squirming, crying and complaining for the rest of week. You see, last night, there was an attack of killer mosquitos in Ibiza, thanks to all that extra humidity from the rain, and Señor Fernandez, ever the gentleman, saw me in the midst of it and very kindly offered up his mozzie spray! You may laugh, but there I was in a restaurant, minding my own business when all of a sudden, my ankles just puffed up out of nowhere (hello cankles!)! I started rubbing them against each other – reminiscent of a cat or dog with fleas I’m sure – and then felt my back start to itch. And so I tried to scratch it, ungracefully. As you do. And then my arms started to itch. And then my neck. And then my knees. Even my temples. They were everywhere!

I know full well am one of those people who tends to get bitten more than others when the mosquitos come out to play. My bites turn into huge raging welts rather than little itchy lumps. And so as I felt myself being turned into some kind of human pin cushion, I wanted to run. I wanted to hide. But err, I was in the middle of dinner. There was nowhere to run. And so I started to scratch, itch, squirm, cry and complain and just when it seemed my dinner companion would up and leave me, Paco Fernandez, who was about to start performing, extended a hand holding the most beautiful thing I had ever seen. A little yellow spray bottle to ward off my enemies. I doused myself in the citronella-scented spray and gratefully vowed I would do anything in my power to return the favour one day. Having grown up Ibiza, Paco clearly knew the mosquitos were coming that night, and so he’d packed accordingly. I swore I would develop that same sixth sense for mosquito detection and if not, I would just forever pack a spray just in case I too can help someone in need one day.

If you’ve read this far and you’re wondering, who is Paco Fernandez, let me take the time to introduce you. No doubt you will have seen him onstage, the strains of Flamenco echoing out from his guitar in some of Ibiza’s best venues, ranging from restaurants to hotels and beaches alike. You may have seen him accompanied by beautiful dancers, cool young guys mixing hip hop beats or rapping over his live music. You may have seen him at a wedding. And while Paco does have the ability to be everywhere in Ibiza, watching him perform once is never enough. Paco was born in a little village in Granada, however in the 1960s, his family packed up and left to move to a little undiscovered slice of paradise – you guessed it, Ibiza. Surrounded by hippies and creative types, the story goe that Paco would spend daytimes at school, afternoons having guitar lessons and nights playing gigs in bars. He’d play popular Spanish music to the influx of tourists, who all fell under his spell, much as they do today. Hi travels took him to Barcelona to study, where began working with well-known jazz musicians and recording his first album. It was around this time that Café del Mar was rising to fame, and Paco started to experiment with a fusion of classic Spanish sounds with the chillout phenomenon. As you can probably imagine, his sounds perfectly conjured up images of sun-soaked days on the beautiful Balearic coast. Paco Fernandez was a hit.

When he returned to Ibiza, he continued to push the boundaries of sound, adding touches of Arabian and Caribbean music to his own Mediterranean Flamenco style. House music followed – naturally – and then made way for hip hop and rap. Today, the full Paco Fernandez live show is seriously impressive with Paco himself sitting to one side of the stage with his trusty guitar, the beautiful Flamenco dancer Eva Redondo stomping and swirling her frilled skirts passionately in the centre. To the right, a keyboard player and next to him, a Dj who mixes and samples effects as he also love raps over the music. A percussionist provides the perfect punctuation to it all and there’s even a light and sound technician, further adding to the overall ambience. He has definitely carved a niche for himself in the island’s musical history, and if you haven’t yet been fortunate enough to watch him play, I strongly recommend you put it on your next Ibiza holiday itinerary. I think the first time I saw Paco Fernandez, was way back when in the heady days of Manumission. In the middle of this thumping, heaving, sweaty, sexy throng of 10,000 people – the most hedonistic party you’d ever been to in your life – emerged a man sitting on a chair onstage playing Flamenco guitar. And it was almost magical. That was part of the power of Manumission – they had the power (and the creativity) to shock you, to enthral you and to show you things you would never ever forget. Since then, he has been a recurring element in my Ibiza life, right up until last night when he saved my life. I’ve seen him play to the packed crowds of Atzaró on their opening and closing parties. I’ve heard him play on the beach at Pura Vida Beach Club. I’ve watched him poolside at Pikes on a Saturday night over dinner. I’ve seen him in the magical gardens at El Carnicero. And yes, I’ve even seen him at a wedding.

Balearic Flamenco, Mediterranean Flamenco, Flamenco Chill, Flamenco Fusion – call it what you will, but to me, Paco Fernandez will always be known as my hero and saviour. And please, heed my warning – this week in Ibiza when there’s a threat of rain looming and the humidity levels are super high and the air feels almost heavy, be sure to leave the house prepared and pack a mosquito repellent! And if not… just be sure to make a beeline to one of Paco Fernandez’s Ibiza residencies: Saturday evening for Flamenco Dining at Pikes, Sundays in Deeva at Port des Torrent, Monday nights at Pura Vida, Tuesday sunset sessions at Kumharas, Thursdays and Fridays at El Carnicero and Villa Mercedes. Paco, I thank you from the bottom of my itchy heart!

A hint of magic

There are many things to consider when approaching an upcoming marriage. What kind of ceremony will you choose? Where is the best place to say ‘I do’? Will the venue emanate the kind of ambience you’re looking to create? All these factors can become even more confusing if you’re choosing to seal your nuptials at a wedding abroad, but worry not, there are venues on the white isle simply made for spectacular, spiritually moving ceremonies – ones which will convey the love you feel for your partner for all to see. The much-loved beach wedding venue of Elements Ibiza on the northern tip of the island is one of them. With a sensational seafront setting on Benirràs beach – famed the world over for its Sunday drumming sessions, bustling market and otherworldly atmosphere – Elements Ibiza is a favourite spot among residents and tourists alike. The chilled, relaxed vibe makes it the ideal place for spending a lazy day beachside, peppered with first-class cuisine, delicious smoothies and cocktails with a kick. With an entrance leading directly to the beach, you can choose to relax on its stylish terrace or sit facing the sparkling Med – wherever you decide, you can’t escape the sun-soaked magnificence oozing from this one-of-a-kind beach club.

These components combine perfectly to also make Elements Ibiza one of the most prestigious wedding venues on the island – that and the fact its dedicated team pride themselves on delivering ceremonies with a difference. Gone are the stuffy vows and stringent rules of some traditional weddings, instead replaced by a ceremony and celebration that reflect the free spirit of the people who choose to marry in its stunning surroundings. “It’s a very special place,” says the venue’s event planner, Gema Lopez. “It’s different – bohemian almost – and that makes the energy at a wedding really nice.” The spiritual connection so often cited in relation to Benirràs forms a special part of ceremonies held at Elements Ibiza. Here, you marry on a pier shooting out from the beach (brides can even arrive by boat if they choose), looking out towards the iconic Cap Bernat (which locals call the ‘hand of God’), just as the sun begins to sink into the horizon. “It’s a special, romantic, magical place,” explains Gema, which if you’ve ever been to Benirràs you’ll entirely understand – it’s one of the most unique places on the island to watch the sky flash through a rainbow of colours before it disappears for the day. The ceremony itself is a pure, spiritual affair, heavily influenced by Balinese culture – making it especially poignant as you declare love for each other in the presence of family and friends.

Once the ceremony has wrapped up, the happy couple and their guests spill onto the beach to watch the tail end of sunset, and the beginning of the first night of marital bliss for the newlyweds. Then they head over to the venue itself, which has been decorated according to the couple’s specification, or left in hand with the Elements Ibiza team. The entire restaurant is exclusive to the wedding party until 3am, where they can dine, dance and be merry in honour of the happy couple. Cuisine, naturally, comes courtesy of the Elements Ibiza kitchen, and while there are three delicious menus to choose from, amendments can be made to suit the taste of the couple and their guests, or a menu can be designed especially for the day. Regardless of menu choice, food at Elements Ibiza is always first-class, organic and locally sourced where possible, allowing the simplicity of the ingredients themselves to do the talking. An open bar can also be arranged, and the restaurant works closely with a range of performers and musicians if you want to continue the party vibe well into the night.

There’s an old saying in Ibiza that says if you marry on the island, your love will last a lifetime, and an Elements Ibiza wedding goes some way to securing just that. Weddings here are spiritual blessings of unabashed love, where people come to celebrate their bond with each other, in the presence of those they care about. “Our weddings aren’t for couples who want a formal celebration,” says Gema. “They’re different – magical.” And as you take your first steps together on the path of the rest of your lives, who could ask for more than that? Photography by Gypsy Westwood Photography – see the full gallery here

Home of health and happiness

Passion Café was the first of its kind in Ibiza, offering holidaymakers healthy alternatives to burgers and fry-ups in an otherwise touristic zone. The Passion ethos being love all, serve all meant meals were presented in a healthier manner – think burgers with gluten-free bread, vegan mayo and organic ingredients. At the time, the appearance of a veggie burger on the menu was something totally new to Ibiza. Passion Café filled a much-needed gap in the market and quickly earned a reputation as the place to get your health fix in Ibiza. Fast forward to 2017 and there are now six Passion pit stops on the island’s gourmet map, spanning the entire island. It has evolved into a full-service breakfast, lunch and dinner destination, and no longer serves red meat in any of its locations for ethical and environmental reasons. Over the years, Lana has continued to pioneer the introduction of superfoods and healthy ingredients to Ibiza – she was the first to add quinoa, açai, raw cacao, maca, matcha and turmeric lattes to her menus (not to mention many more – the list goes on), long before they were ‘buzzwords’ – and others were quick to follow. The most recent addition to the Passion stock room is CBD oil, served up in the lovely calming ‘Legalise Happiness’ drink, designed to help to ease stress and anxiety, in addition to easing and preventing a variety health issues.

With the 2017 season in full swing, Lana is now up to her elbows – quite literally, if you see her at work in Passion Pantry, surrounded by tubs of superfood powders – in health and happiness. Passion has already gone through 100 kilos of raw cacao, 100 kilos of chia seeds, 50 kilos of maca powder, 30 kilos of goji berries and 20 kilos of bee pollen this summer and still counting – a sure sign that islanders remain devoted to the brand for their daily or weekly dose of health and wellness. And the constant smiles on their faces as they walk out of their chosen Passion – Marina, Santa Eulalia, San Jose, Playa d’en Bossa, Bfit and Passion Pantry – are evidence of the happiness element, plain and simple. Passion is renowned for its extensive menu selections, with the philosophy of offering something for everyone lasting to this day. It’s important to note, despite some beliefs, Passion does not only cater for vegans and vegetarians. Meat eaters and fish lovers will also find many options to sate their appetites. It’s all about finding the perfect choice to suit your mood and your dietary requirements. “The passion menus have been designed with people on their holidays in mind,” explains Lana of the epic A2 doubles sided menus that greet diners in vibrant colours. “The options tick so many boxes. We have plenty of amazing things for meat and fish eaters, but a lot of attention and love has gone into catering to those who have strict dietary requirements, health issues, are vegan or vegetarian – we’re never going to just offer a green salad of friend potatoes as options!”

Starting the day right has always been a priority for Passion clients – after all, it’s the most important meal of the day, right? “Breakfast at Passion is not something you quickly grab on the way to work,” explains Lana of the concept. “It’s more like the brunch style indulgence you’d have on the weekends.” After all, in summer, every day is like a weekend in Ibiza. “Passion breakfast is more like a ritual,” she continues. “The menu is so extensive and complex it’s like going out to lunch or dinner in a fancy restaurant – it’s a high-end breakfast. The preparation of some of our dishes is so complex, especially compared to say, a grilled steak with mashed potato!” Whether you opt for a luxe avocado toast creation or a dish complete with Haloumi, salmon or indulgent pancakes, each dish is chock-full of goodness and made using the very highest quality ingredients on the market and designed to keep you going throughout the day. The Açai bowl is currently winning the award for ‘most Instagrammed dish in Ibiza’, with Lana seeing her beautiful creation tagged in more posts per day than anything else. “We’re really known as the place to go for breakfast in Ibiza,” says Lana proudly. “From early in the morning, right through until lunch we’re serving breakfast and brunch. Of course, you can get the typical tostada, croissant or coffee if that’s what you want, but the beauty of the menu is it’s not like other places. It’s not necessarily something you’d eat every day – but then, we do have people who come for breakfast every day and they can never eat the same thing twice in a week.”

Lunch by the sea, lunch in the hills, lunch after your workout, lunch over your emails or lunch before you hit the beach – all of the Passion Cafes can cater to all these midday cravings and much more, with special attention paid to vegans, vegetarians and the health conscious. “There are so many beautiful restaurants in Ibiza,” says Lana. “But unless you eat meat, chicken or fish, sometimes it’s hard to survive on side dishes alone. At Passion, we offer really great things for meat eaters, like our famous burgers, chicken salads and shwarmas among other things, but I find those people who are following a certain lifestyle or diet – whether for health reasons or by choice – are always so grateful at the options they find at Passion.” It’s important to note in addition to variety and quality, freshness is 100-percent guaranteed when you dine at Passion. The fast-paced nature of the venues means there’s no chance of eating a day-old sweet potato or grain – as fast as the fresh fruit and veggie deliveries come in to the restaurants, they are prepped, cooked and sent out on your plate. “You can really taste the freshness in our food,” says Lana. “Everything is prepped and made to order daily.” For Lana, the most appealing thing on the Passion menu for lunch is being spoilt for choice. “I get told off by my chefs and management for the menu being so big,” Lana laughs. “But it works. The variety is at the core of what the Passion concept is. We understand vegetarians and vegans still want to be presented with options, and to leave feeling full, after eating nice big a plate full of flavours and textures. A lot of thought has gone into the menu. It’s like a matrix behind the scenes here, with such a huge amount of ingredients – fruit, vegetables, grains, tempehs and tofus, Haloumi, herbs – being prepped and stored. But there is something for everyone and on the rare chance you can’t find something you want, you could curate your own dish with everything we have available.”

Each and every Passion has a different ambience by night, but the one thing they have in common is food that feeds the soul. At Passion, you can grab an early dinner after you’ve been on the beach all day or tuck into something healthy and light that won’t make you tired before you hit the dance floor later. Sit beneath the stars in front of the sea and soak up the romance in Santa Eulalia or in the Marina, dine on clean and healthy cuisine after a luxurious afternoon in a spa or grab a takeaway meal – served in environmentally friendly vegware of course – if you just want to get home fast but don’t want to compromise on quality. “One of the things people really appreciate at Passion for dinner is the abundance,” says Lana. “You get a great sized portion for the price – you very rarely need to order three courses as our mains are so big. It becomes very affordable for a night out. It’s also a lot lighter than a lot of other restaurant food – our meals won’t make you feel tired before you go out. You’ll feel satisfied.” Organic wines and beer are available however Lana says most of Passion’s after-dark clientele aren’t looking for a boozy dinner. “People come to us to get the things they can’t get anywhere else – they still drink green juices and protein shakes with their dinners!” Over the years, Passion has become famous for its delicious desserts and if you are still peckish after your meal, the carrot cake or decadent chocolate brownie with ice cream are perfect to split between a few friends… or take home for later! “We’re starting to see a lot more people come to Passion for dinner this year,” says Lana. “Passion is no longer just considered a breakfast or lunch destination. A meal at Passion is like a special event, no matter what time of day.”

It would be remiss not to give a special nod to the Passion drinks menu – with two pages dedicated to amazing beverage concoctions (a whopping 150 drinks in total across the venues). Drinks at Passion can range from a lush, fresh juice to wash down your brekkie with or a meal replacement style protein shake. Superfood smoothies, cutting-edge hot drinks and health-boosting shots are all part of the Passion package. “The menu would be even bigger if I could fit more on there,” Lana admits sheepishly. The scope for delicious liquid refreshment is endless in her eyes. “When I first opened Playa d’en Bossa, we had an A4 menu of drinks, but it was mostly juices and smoothies. Over time, it’s evolved to include elixirs, what I like to call ‘trendy lattes’, hot superfood drinks, healthy shots, parfait shakes and so much more. This year we’ve also introduced a new range of Passion cold-pressed juices that have 1.5 kilos of fresh organic fruits and vegetables in each serving, and due to the high-tech machine they are made with, they last for up to 30 days because all the bad bacteria has been eliminated in seconds during the making.” This means Passion lovers can now stocks up their villa or boat fridges, or curate their own detox without having to drive to the restaurant each day for their health fix. You can also enjoy them at Agroturismo Atzaró, whoe were so impressed with the new Passion cold-pressed juices that they are now serving them as refreshing, healthy drink alternatives for their guests. Impressive. Last of all, Passion’s own coffee blend – a custom roast by the island’s own organic coffee masters Café Mekes that was presided over by self-confessed coffee addict Lana – has become somewhat of an institution around the island. “I almost can’t get my head around the insane amount of takeaway coffee we sell these days,” says Lana in disbelief – thankfully her takeout containers and cups are all eco-friendly so this increase is sustainable. “We only use organic milks – you’ll never have a GMO soy with a fake vanilla taste here – and we go through cartons so quickly (every couple of minutes), there’s no chance of the milk spoiling.” The Passion coffee machines are also state-of-the-art, and are cleaned and maintained with the precision of a Formula One car to ensure total coffee perfection.

The Passion promise goes beyond just offering healthy eating options. Lana is also passionate about creating awareness within the Passion community, which tends to also be made up of like-minded conscious souls. Takeout is served in the aforementioned sustainable veg-ware, vegan and vegetarian options are a plenty and fruit, veg and meat is all organic where possible. Quality, above all, is premium. Large portions, exceptional produce and creative taste sensations are accessibly priced – offering value for money is another of Passion’s practices. On an island where healthy-based gimmick restaurants are popping up like mushrooms after a rainstorm, it’s good to know there is one (or six, as the case may be!) you can always trust. With 16 years of experience to draw from, it’s not about trends or fads – it never has been. Everything on the Passion menu has been researched thoroughly, sourced ethically, and tried and tested passionately before being added to the menu. Open from 9am until midnight daily, that’s all the more reason to indulge your Passions, my dears…

DJs doing good

But it’s rare that people shine a light on the good that many DJs, do beyond bringing happiness to the dance floor of course. So today, while thinking about the sadness that is currently shadowing much of the world, we should also take some time to appreciate those who use their place in the spotlight to do good.

Contributing to a cause that is very close to our own hearts here at White Ibiza, the teams behind Hï Ibiza and Glitterbox recently teamed up to create the ultimate record collection – a series of hugely influential tracks made by this year’s headliners and classics of days gone by. The collection is now up for auction and will be sold to the highest bidder at the end of the 2017 summer season. All funds raised go directly to The Ibiza Preservation fund to help save our land, sea and cultural and environmental heritage. For more info, or to place your bid, visit the Hï Ibiza website here. On a global scale, Hï Ibiza continue their good work with a new initiative called Dance for One Metre (D41M) this summer, inviting clubbers to dance for another good cause. When guests purchase tickets online, they also have the opportunity to reserve and save one square metre of rainforest in the Culpo Foundations Rainforest Preserve in Brazil – you can even zoom in using Google Earth and check out your own coordinates once you’ve taken part. The idea was conceived at Burning Man a few years ago, inspired by the way the Burner community came together without leaving any environmental impact. If only that could happen on a global scale. Well, one step, or at least one metre, at a time…

Ibiza is also the home of Last Night a DJ Saved My Life – a foundation that helps raise money and provide aid to children in crisis around the world. While many a DJ has leant a helping hand to LNADJ over the years since its inception, this year’s shining star is George Evelyn of Nightmares on Wax. He’s dubbed this year’s exclusive series of Wax Da Jam parties at Ibiza’s legendary hippy market, Las Dalias, the ‘Season of Giving’, with ten percent of the profits from the four parties being donated to the charity, going towards building a well in Africa or India. Further afield, Bridges for Music is another non-profit organisation, bringing together key players in the music industry to raise global awareness and support for responsible development in developing countries, disadvantaged communities. The team behind the initiative understand that artists have the power to bridge the gap between the rich and poor, and are more and more becoming considered tastemakers and opinion leaders and thus encourage them to use their prominent platform to their advantage. Loco Dice, Black Coffee, Richie Hawtin, Skrillex, Dixon and Luciano have all participated in programs in South Africa, workshops or schools created by Bridges for Music, using not only their platform to raise awareness, but also their skills and talents to inspire creativity in places where music may not have been considered a viable career option in years gone by.

Ahhh my dear Luciano. You knew I couldn’t let another blog go by without an honourable mention! But this time, it is truly honourable indeed – in addition to his aforementioned work with Bridges for Music, he also quietly goes about his life making a difference to others in many different charitable ways. He believes he has been given a unique opportunity, through his travels, to connect with people and create unity, promote social consciousness and believes giving back is an ongoing responsibility while also working to preserve Mother Earth. As I mentioned last week, Luciano donated his performance fee from his recent WooMoon gig to local children’s cancer charities, and in years past he has taken part in projects such as Cycle2ADE – riding a bike from London to the annual Amsterdam music conference to raise money to build a school in South Africa. He’s also donated his time to a party to raise money for Claire’s House Children’s Hospital in the UK, has performed for free for the inmates of Ibiza’s prison, and founded his own charity called One Coin For Life, which takes donations from the music industry, or profits raised from selling merchandise, and puts them towards communities in need around the globe, including his homeland of Chile, Colombia and Kenya. Is there anything this man can’t do?

When it comes to helping little ones in need, Ibiza’s most recognisable celebrity resident Paris Hilton – who holds a summer residency in Amnesia on Sunday nights with her Foam & Diamonds party – is one of the first ones to get involved. Hilton doesn’t only donate money to good causes – she throws parties for them, with an annual foam party held for kids and teens in Amnesia, with profits being raised going to local children’s charity APNEEF. She’s also been spotted getting hands-on and participating in art workshops with children with special needs at NY art collector Lia Malca’s space, La Nave in Salinas, proving she is much more than just a pretty face. She’s a caring one too. Another name often associated with lasers and partying moreso than charity is Hardwell, the Dutch DJ who keeps a humble profile when it comes to the art of giving. His own global United We Are Foundation joined forces with Mumbai’s NGO Magic Bus, to give aid and provide education to over 18,000 children in urban and rural areas in India. In the EDM world, many of the multi-million dollar artists are generous with their time and money – despite what preconceptions about their industry may be – with Avicii previously launching a charity dedicated to abolishing world hunger, starting in his own backyard of the USA before moving across to Africa. To date, more than one million dollars have been raised and more than two million meals distributed.

Meanwhile, the man behind Pacha’s roadblock success party F*** Me I’m Famous, David Guetta, is also heavily involved with a variety charities including the Red Cross, City of Hope and STOMP Out Bullying among others.  The DJ and producer works closely with the United Nations and famously made a track and video for World Humanitarian day – every time it was tweeted, or retweeted, one dollar was donated to aiding those in the Phillipines, Syria and other areas affected by natural disasters and humanitarian crises. Love it or hate it, he also remixed Wham’s classic ‘Do They Know It’s Christmas?’ to raise money and awareness for Ebola victims in West Africa. F** Me – that’s using his fame wisely! And that’s just a handful of DJs who are using their powers for good over evil! There are so many more – Seth Troxler’s soup kitchen in Amsterdam also springs to mind, Ida Engberg’s Techno for Humanity, Café Mambo and their Mambo in the Mix parties raising money for Ibiza’s Red Cross, Carl Cox using his ‘Oh Yes’ tagline to create a phone-based donation system for Warchild – but the most wonderful thing is, they are not doing it for recognition. They’re certainly not doing it because they have to. They’re just doing it from the heart.