Dude, where’s my (Michelin) star?
It was around 12 years ago that the murmurings started. The word circuiting the food and wine world was that France was slipping from its position as supreme potentate of haute cuisine. For decades, perhaps even centuries, French cuisine and all its accoutrements (cantankerous chefs, high minded culinary schools and insolent waiters) was considered the pre-eminent, unsurpassed, crème-de-la-crème of food and wine. France’s slow decline can be traced back to 1990 and the experimental kitchen of a self-taught Catalonian by the name of Ferran Adrià.
Poor, France, it was all downhill from there. El Bulli, Adrià’s restaurant at the time in the small town of Roses, gained its first Michelin star in 1990 and upped it to three by 1997. Haute cuisine was replaced, unquestionably, with cocina alta and Spain’s stars have been rising ever since. There are now 167 Michelin stars gracing the doors of restaurants all over the nation and Spanish cuisine is definitely the leader of the pack when it comes to popularity, experimentation and excellence.
But where oh where is a starry eyed foodie going to eat in Ibiza? On an island so revered for its VIP culture, it’s surprising to note our cuisine scene isn’t making the world (aka, the anonymous Michelin inspectors) stand up and take notice. We have super stars, super yachts, super villas and super clubs – surely our chefs are verging on the super status too? Those in the know on the island fluctuate between foot stamping at the injustice to pouting about claiming that we don’t really care, we have better things to do. They do it for the love, not the fame.
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