Ibiza restaurants: Bocata de Calamares at El Portalon

In Madrid, lines of people can be seen snaking around corners waiting to buy a calamari sandwich from a hole in the wall. This classic sandwich is the ultimate Madrileño street food – it ticks a lot of boxes, this deep fried squid in a bread roll. Thankfully El Portalon’s homage to this traditional Spanish snack is much lighter than the original.

Slow-cooked, line-caught local squid perches atop squid ink pan esponja. Dabs of squid ink tinted aioli lend a creamy, garlicky sweetness while tiny pearls of pickled mustard seeds balance out the flavours with a dash of acidity. Spheres of crispy batter nod to the original deep fried origins of the dish and a perfectly formed seaweed flower is a crunchy reminder of the sea.