Greetings from Formentera

They say the grass is always greener on the other side, but I think when it comes to Ibiza’s sister isle, Formentera, it’s a case of the water is always bluer (yes, that’s a word – I checked). I’m telling you this from experience, as I sit here gazing out over the crystal clear Mediterranean Sea, looking towards Ibiza. The water in Formentera is indeed a different shade of blue than it is at home – that’s not to say it’s better by any means, but if there’s one thing in this life I know for sure, it’s that an island-hop across from one beloved Balearic to another is exactly what you need to make everything a-ok.

When you’re living and working in Ibiza, sometimes it can feel like there’s never a good time to get away in the summer. Formentera is just a 30-minute ferry ride away (and lucky residents receive 75% off the price too, making it even more appealing), and yet so many of us put it off, waiting for the right time, waiting for the right weather, waiting until we’re not busy, waiting until our visiting friends are here, waiting for some kind of occasion. For example, I waited until I needed to visit the island for work – for research purposes, obvs – and the minute I arrived on the island, I realised (as always!) I had waited far too long. I could have been here so many times up until now and now the season is almost over (disclaimer: that’s what locals think, not tourists so stay calm!).

It’s funny, how in our heads we think that going to Formentera is such a big deal, when in reality, it’s less of a journey than many daily commuters take just to get to work. And there’s just something about that little trip across the sea that can completely change your mindset – a weight just drops off your shoulders the second the boat leaves the dock. It’s almost like a phenomenon… the closer and closer we (and when I say we, I mean we the collective of Ibiza dwellers) get to Espalmador, and then the port of La Savina, the less and less we feel tense, worried, stressed, tired, negative. It’s like the air is different over there. Just like the grass is greener and the water bluer, the air is, well, airier. But, as I told you already, we are here to work so it’s not like I am able to switch my phone off and leave my laptop in the hotel safe (oh I do dream of those days), but I still feel a little like I’m on holiday from my normal life.

As we roam around the island – again, all in the name of research – and get to know more of its places and people (ohhhh Formentera people, how I love you), we become these kind of relaxed versions of our Ibiza selves. On the beaches, our photographer suddenly strips to almost nothing and swans around doing her job – and doing her job very well, mind you – in an itsy bitsy teeny weenie bikini. We stop the car on the salt flats just to breathe in and enjoy the moment (something I’m sure must drive Formentera locals insane – sorry!) in between shoots. We drink beer when we’re thirsty (disclaimer number two: that wasn’t me, I was driving safely). We collect shells on the beach. We try on every single straw hat in every single little supermarket and buy tie-dyed dresses from the market and quirky Formentera fridge magnets.

I catch a look at us in our (very typical of most tourists in Formentera) little hired Fiat Panda – sun-kissed faces, sunburnt shoulders (and backs of knees – ouch), bags full of tat in the back and Bob Marley on the radio and I think, who ARE these girls? They are definitely not the same two people who got on the ferry and satin silence as they used their mobile phones as laptop hotspots so they could keep up with emails on-the-go. And it hasn’t even been 48 hours yet.

People talk about Ibiza possessing an energy, and I can’t help but think Formentera does too. For us, it’s the yin to Ibiza’s yang – it’s a calming, blissful, soothing kind of energy. Like a year-long meditation in the course of a 30-minute boat ride. I can’t help but wonder – do the Formentera locals judge us for being this way? Do they look at us with disdain? Do they know how much we love their beautiful island, what a high esteem we hold it in, how we envy them their lives in paradise? Are they feeling the way we do in Ibiza, as their island is overrun by hire cars and mopeds, just counting down the months to winter? Do they share our joy in their island life, or does the grass seem greener to them in Ibiza (hmm, or perhaps Menorca)?

That’s when it hit me. This life, that I’m living right now in Formentera – the writer dashing all over a beautiful Mediterranean island, writing about all the best restaurants and beaches, learning the island folklore, meeting cool people and (gasp!) having FUN while she does it – this is the life that most people imagine I’m living in Ibiza. And I think to myself: why is it only like this for me in Formentera? Why can’t I have this life in Ibiza too (disclaimer number three: not saying my life is bad in Ibiza, it’s just not quite as laidback)? Essentially the work is the same. The hours are the same. The climate is the same. Why is it that I can’t try on silly straw hats, buy clothes from roadside supermarkets and blast reggae from my car in Ibiza?

It’s a tale of two islands… they’re just not the same. The people are not the same. Life is not the same. And maybe, that’s what makes these trips to Formentera so precious to me. If I was to move to the island (and believe me, I’ve thought about it A LOT), would it all start to lose the magic? Would the grass start to look greener in Ibiza? Or would I start to look further afield for green grass, blue water and airy air? As we sit here in the port right now, waiting to board the ferry back home to Ibiza, I’m reminded of my all-time favourite movie, and that moment when Dorothy has a moment of clarity when she’s back in Kansas after her trip to Oz. “If I ever go looking for my heart’s desire again, I won’t look any further than my own back yard. Because if it isn’t there, I never really lost it to begin with.” I love you Formentera, but there’s no place like home…

24 hours in Formentera

From beachfront yoga and authentic hippy markets to magical full moon parties by the sea, here you’ll find many a place honouring the island’s bohemian roots. Once you’ve experienced island culture beyond the famous boats and beach restaurants, typical Formentera life leaves you craving so much more…

8.30am – Yoga

No Formentera holiday is complete without a session of morning yoga and the tranquil side of Playa de Migjorn is the ideal setting to explore ‘un camino de vida’.  As the rest of the island awakens from its slumber, Gecko Beach Club hosts complimentary classes for guests every day, while those seeking a drop in class can visit Hostel Aigua Clara where professional and experienced, health conscious instructors offer unique yoga workshops every morning in front of the sea, to awaken the body and take you on a spiritual journey whilst surrounded by nature. www.hostalaiguaclara.com – +34 622 306 198

10am – Breakfast

The most important meal of the day is also made even better with sea views, and Las Playas Dunas is one of Formentera’s best kept secret spots – one that’s well worth the dusty journey along sandy track roads leading to another section of Playa de Migjorn. Tucked within sand dunes, this traditional and charming Spanish breakfast spot is open from 9am and offers spectacular views of the deep blue sea. Tuck into a delicious buffet breakfast on the beachy terrace leading out the inviting infinity pool, which echoes the curve of the cliffside. www.dunasplaya.com –+43 971 32 80 52

12pm – Beach

Located to the left of the ribbon of road leading towards La Mola is the secluded beach of Es Calo – its unspoiled rugged cliffside offering a distinct change from the vastness of Playa de Migjorn. A stretch of the stunning cliffside plunges into the sea, creating a unique view and protected bay in which to swim. Three small coves appear like perfect blue lagoons with soft sandy shores, visited primarily by locals due to the secluded location. A tranquil resting point for a couple of hours of ‘you time’ before getting back on the road again.

2pm – Lunch

The journey up to La Mola is a breezy, sight-seeing spectacle with the added bonus of finding parts of the island you didn’t know existed. Recently refurbished, with a Mediterranean inspired interior and a menu brimming with fresh seafood dishes, Can Pascual competes as one of the best fish restaurants on the island. Tastefully decorated with organic wood and bamboo furnishings, polished concrete floors and fresh whites combined with tropical, glass bottle greens. Open-plan seating merges the inside with out, for a trendy, cool and collected place to stop for lunch. www.canpasqualrestaurant.com – +34 971 327 014

5.30pm – Hippy Market

Every Wednesday and Sunday from May to October, the island’s local creators, artists and musicians gather from 5pm at the authentic Hippy Market in the village of La Mola, at the highest southern point of the island. Here, you can feel the essence of original bohemian Formentera life. The joyful and colourful market is reminiscent of a time when hippies from around the world were beckoned by the freedom and peace Formentera could afford them. The space is transformed into a lively centre of culture where you can shop for a variety of fashion creations, ceramics, and handmade jewellery, while live music plays for a relaxed and fun afternoon.

7.30pm – Sunset

A visit to La Mola is made even more worth the drive up the winding mountain road by the unique and striking birds-eye view of the island from the top. This sight is best seen towards the end of the day, most notably at sunset when the outline of the island is prominent and glowing beneath the candy floss sky. There is a perfect lookout point midway at El Mirador restaurant, where you can stop for a sundowner and absorb the unique scenery before you descend the mountain. +34 971 327 037

9.30pm – Dinner

Sometimes you have to travel that extra mile to find some place special. With a true sense of exclusivity, this quaint, stylish and homely restaurant is hidden in the forest, at the base of the hillside leading to La Mola. Fairy lights light the pathway to a cosy hammock area where you can enjoy an aperitif before indulging in Italian-influenced cuisine with a modern Mediterranean twist. It is neither fussy nor pretentious but calm and comforting – owned and run by two respectful Italian brothers whose passion, charm and sophistication is reflected in their service, and quirky and inventive touches such as homemade flavoured breads. +34 971 327 472

11.30pm – Drinks

One cannot leave Formentera without a visit to the famous Blue Bar and thankfully, this sunset spot is also a popular moonlight haunt. Open until 4am nightly, Blue Bar opened in the 60s and was later transformed into a cosmic inspired chill-out, hosting unforgettable sunsets, magnificent views and trance vibes. Legends such as Bob Marley and Pink Floyd have frequented this bar over the years (among others), though it’s now renowned for an eclectic mix of music from visiting and resident DJs. Choose between grooving on the tiered seating overlooking the sea, dancing beneath the moon and the stars or in the quirky interior. www.bluebarformentera.com – +34 666 75 81 90

1am – Sleep

Inspired by the seaside elegance of the 50s, Gecko Beach Club & Hotel invites cosmopolitan travellers to experience their very own version of a ‘Balearic Riviera’. Rooms are decorated in neutral colour palettes, with retro inspired furniture, lots of floor to ceiling glass and mirrors. Superior rooms include swish private patios and terraces with panoramic views of Playa de Migjorn or the hotel’s lush gardens, which overlook the beach. It’s impossible not to sleep well when this is your home away from home for the night. www.geckobeachclub.com – +34 971 328 024 Words and photos by Mimi Gerrard-Morgan Main Es Calo photo by Ana Lui

24 hours in Formentera – Cala Saona, Cap de Barbaria and Playa de Migjorn

Ibiza’s ‘little’ sister is indeed a small island, however she is brimming with things to do and places to see.  With everything in such close proximity, it’s easy to plan an itinerary that covers all bases from sightseeing and exploring to relaxation and dining. From the famed west coast hotspot of Cala Saona down to the beautiful lookout point of Cap de Barbaria and along the striking stretch of southern coastline of Playa de Migjorn, you can find everything you need for a mindful, fun and fulfilling day in Formentera.

9am – Breakfast

Start your day at one of the island’s newest trendy cafés: Mama Coco, perched on the cusp of Sant Francesc’s main street (leading to Cala Saona). This buzzing little hotspot is popular with the locals, boasting an industrial inspired interior with polished concrete walls, neon lighting plus succulents and cacti. Watch the world go by over a light bite or croissant and coffee in the shaded seating area and catch up with the local daily news with a free Spanish newspaper – Google Translate and the pictures can help tell the story if you’re not fluent. +34 604 191 090  

10.30am – Sightseeing

The lighthouse at Cap de Barbaria is an impressive sight in the early morning due to the beauty of its vast landscape – the vista extends all the way to the African coast. Its role in various films and commercials over the years has brought this stunning location to the attention to many sightseers, and today it is one of the most prominent attractions in Formentera. Located on the southernmost tip of the island, past Cala Saona via a long, scenic stretch of country road that leads you to an expansive rocky environment, its breath-taking views and peaceful atmosphere are a perfect match for its splendour. A new conservation-inspired rule has recently been enforced, meaning all cars must be parked at the entrance and the lighthouse is only accessible on foot, so be prepared for a 15-minute walk each way. The true wow factor hits when you finally arrive to see those panoramic views of the Mediterranean Sea and the horizon, where it really does feel as if you have arrived at the end of the earth.

12pm – Spa

Rejuvenate your mind, body and soul by taking a short respite at one of Formentera’s leading hotels and spas – Hotel Cala Saona – where you can enjoy a holistic wellness experience immersed in the surrounding natural beauty of Formentera. Choose from an extensive range of regenerative and detoxifying body and facial treatments and massages, are all customised to suit your needs and accompanied by stunning views of Cala Saona. Follow this with a dip in the hotel’s pool or pop down to the beach to swim in its equally transparent waters before continuing on with the day. www.hotelcalasaona.com – +34 971 322 030

2.30pm – Lunch

This typical Spanish restaurant is well known for its traditional Mediterranean cuisine and authentic paella dishes. Tucked into the cliffside at Cala Saona, you can dine in the comfort of this cool, light and breezy beach bistro while overlooking the sand and the sea, soaking up the lively ambience and mouth-watering scents wafting out of the kitchen, where a taste of the traditional is being lovingly prepared with fresh-caught catches of the day. Mind you, make a reservation early or be rapido, as this place fills up for lunch fast! +34 871 551 575

4.30pm – Beach

Afternoons in Formentera are the ideal time to reflect and cool off as the typical island breeze arrive in the later hours of the day. The covert cove of Cala Saona is a magical destination – paddle in the shallow turquoise waters that lead out to deep blue sea, protected by the sweeping wall of sandstone cliffs and authentic Formentera fishing shacks scattered on the rocks beneath. This beach has a very different feel to the rest of the beaches in Formentera – it evokes a sense of nostalgic for those returning and creates a treasured memory for first timers.

7pm – Sundowners

For a true taste of local life, Kiosko 62 is an alternative experience not to be missed, especially as the sunset hour creeps in. This weathered and character-filled wooden beach shack on the sandy rocks of Playa de Migjorn faces out to sea and is everything you expect from a Formentera beach bar. Slightly off the beaten track and not overly crowded, it offers affordable drinks, a no frills service and laid-back atmosphere – the perfect place to unwind. The ambience comes alive as dusk falls and people relax to the sound of reggae and lounge music alongside the gentle sea breeze. +34 697 840 795

9.30pm – Dinner

Casbah Restaurant is set in a stylish hotel of the same name in the heart of the most authentic and rural part of Formentera, just a stone’s throw from Playa de Migjorn. The restaurant’s architectural design cleverly merges nature with modernity for an immersive dining experience. Glass walls reflect the lush greenery, pines and palms that encompass the luxurious gardens, creating an environment that emits calm from every corner. The smell of pine and the soundtrack of cicadas are complemented by a rich and varied gastronomic offering – think classic Mediterranean fresh fish, exquisite grilled meats prepared with a cutting-edge twist, signature rice and pasta dishes, some fine dining classics and Spanish tapas favourites, all served under the balmy summer sky. www.hotelcasbahformentera.com – +34 971 322 051

11.30pm – Cocktails

For a change of scenery, take a drive through the campo and vineyards, to follow a picturesque winding road leading towards the main town until you reach the magical fairy-lit surrounds of famed Formentera restaurant Can Carlos. Treat yourself to a fruity classic cocktail, or spicy new infusion whipped up by one of the professional and dapper bartenders shaking, stirring and serving up the island’s finest each night. Each cocktail is made with love and precision, using fresh ingredient, with presentation that is most definitely Instagram-worthy! www.cancarlos.com – +34 971 322 874

1am – Sleep

This recently renovated luxury apartment complex is a sanctuary on the tranquil side of Playa de Migjorn, set amidst a forest of beautifully scented pines. The architecture resonates with the authentic essence of Formentera, accentuating and complementing the Mediterranean surrounds. Carefully thought out interior design blends crisp whites, subtle greens and sunny yellows throughout, creating a calming, charming and unique home away from home. The beach is just a short walk from the complex for a refreshing early morning dip, although some bungalows come complete with the temptation of a private Jacuzzi. www.paraisodelospinos.com – +34 971 322 613 Words and photos by Mimi Gerrard-Morgan Illetes photo by Ana Lui

24 hours in Formentera – La Savina and Playa Llevant

The outside world is at touching distance and yet Formentera still feels like an exclusive and secluded paradise. The energy of La Savina ebbs and flows throughout the day as visitors filter on and off the endless fleet of ferries from Ibiza. At the end of the day, a subdued and gentle calmness is left behind, breeding a satisfying feeling of content for those who remain onshore, because just for a little while longer, you have the pleasure of indulging in the lesser-known Formentera life.

8.30am – Breakfast

A stone’s throw from the bustle of the main port, Quimera is a quiet and serene little situ for breakfast accompanied by an idyllic morning view. This newly-renovated hidden gem with ancestral Spanish heritage boasts a cosmopolitan atmosphere and Mediterranean style menu created by a Michelin star awarded chef, although breakfast is a relaxed affair. A tropical-inspired seating area on the breezy terrace overlooks L’Estany des Peix, a calm lagoon (complete with a covert beach) that leads out into the open sea, scattered with llaüts, the traditional local fishing boats. Watch the water glisten as boats roll in and out and fill up on a wholesome breakfast of freshly baked croissants or Grandma’s homemade scrambled eggs, washed down with a freshly squeezed juice – the perfect fuel-up for the day ahead. www.quimerarestaurant.com – +34 971 322 279

9.30am – SUP

The Stand Up Paddleboarding phenomenon shows no signs of slowing down in 2018 and Formentera’s calm waters are the ideal place to combine fun and exploration with balance, relaxation and strength. Saigu, in La Savina, gives you the opportunity to see Formentera from a new perspective, with professional SUP instructors leading you on a stunning scenic route around the north coast of the island, before wading through crystal clear waters and later arriving at the nature reserve of Es Palmador to explore the marine environment. Advance reservations for these early morning three-hour adventures are essential – suitable for all levels of experience. www.saiguformentera.com – +34 674 409 358

1.30pm – Lunch

This unexpected and unassuming little chiringuito is tucked neatly within the sand dunes of Playa Llevant and hidden from view, creating a discreet and tranquil lunch spot that’s far from the madding crowds. There is a certain type of Caribbean charm about its stripped back, rustic presentation, complete with wooden furniture and sandy floors sheltered beneath a cool wicker shade. Tantalising aromas of fresh seafood, rich pasta dishes and tapas escape from the kitchen, complemented by warm staff and attentive service until 8pm daily. www.kiosko-vapormanolito.business.site – +34 669 30 9 802

3.30pm – Beach

While it’s just a short stroll from the popular white sands of Illetes, Playa Llevant is a peaceful respite – which explains why this less familiar stretch of coastline is the place celebrities opt to spend their heady Formentera days (making it prone to the odd paparazzi). Soft white sand and a gentle breeze even in high summer create the most relaxing environment and depending on the daily wind change, the sea can alternate between a flat pond of transparent waters to a windsurfer’s paradise of turquoise crashing waves. Either way, a day spent here is one to remember.

8.30pm – Sunset drinks

Ibiza might be world-renowned for its famous sunset strip, but sunsets in Formentera are equally as spectacular. As the day winds down and as the air cools, the glorious sunset paints the Balearic sky intense shades of red, pink and orange on a clear night. This natural spectacle is always a must-see and can be viewed from many points around Las Salinas. Sa Sequi boasts a picture perfect setting, with the landscape of La Savina on the left and the hazy outline of Ibiza on the right. Carefully curated music complements the chilled atmosphere as the light slowly falls, illuminating the north of the island and effortlessly capturing the silhouette of Es Vedra on the horizon. www.sasequi.com – +34 622 853 340

10.30pm – Dinner

Ibiza’s most popular Brazilian hangout recently opened the tropical doors to its Formentera outpost on the dock of the bay in La Savina. Expect a tasty infusion of light, fresh and rich Japanese cuisine – a staple cuisine in the Brazilian diet since thousands of Japanese families migrated to the country after the First World War – plus the very finest Brazilian cocktails, all enjoyed with panoramic views of La Savina and the twinkling harbour at night. A fun and casual dining experience with warm, speedy service and authentic music – a buzzing way to either end your day or kick-start your Formentera night. www.temakinho.com – +34 602 645 973

11.30pm – Night cap

For some, the night is still young and the great advantage of dining in the port at La Savina is that the best bars are all within walking distance. Just a few steps away from Temakhino, Aigua offers a stylish lounging area ideal for a night cap – its cosy, candlelit setting on the picturesque marina is the ideal place to soak up the scenery. Kick back on low-slung seating and sip on expertly made cocktails; savour the sea breeze to the sounds of clinking boat masts and reflect on the day gone by. This is the part of Formentera life most day-trippers never get to experience. +34 971 323 322

12.30am – Sleep

Set on the cusp of the road leading from La Mola right through to La Savina, Can Aisha is a secluded sanctuary of calm and pure bliss, yet just minutes away from all the island’s action. This complex of five studio apartments with contemporary Spanish touches make for a highly inviting and comfortable stay. Each apartment shares a luxury garden area with a private swimming pool surrounded with cacti and soft white sun loungers. Chic is an understatement and whilst feeling very exclusive, the complex is perfectly positioned in proximity to the best beaches, bars and restaurants. With less than one kilometre drive away from each town, staying here means the island is your oyster! www.canaisha.com – +34 616 654 982 Words and photos by Mimi Gerrard-Morgan Playa Llevant photo by Ana Lui

24 hours in Formentera – Es Pujols and Sant Ferran

One of the fantastic advantages of visiting such a small island is that you can meander from one village to the next from day to night with ease, flitting back and forth to suit your mood and style. Pair the liveliness of Es Pujols by day with the chilled ambience of nearby Sant Ferran by night for a true taste of authentic island life.

6.30am – Horse riding

Getting the most out of a day in Formentera definitely requires an early start! There is no better way to experience the cooler, more tranquil hours of the morning, as the sleepy island awakes, than with a horse riding tour along the peaceful shores of Playa Llevant and Illetes. Led by local instructor Vicent Juan of Rutas Es Boixets horse riding club (situated on the dusty track between Es Pujols and Sant Francesc), this two-and-a-half hour seaside hack is suitable for experienced riders and beginners alike. From cantering across soft white sand and trotting over country terrain to striding through the shallow waters, this is an experience well worth getting out of bed early for. www.rutasesboixets.com – +34 669 572 896

10am – Breakfast

If your equestrian adventures have worked up an appetite, make haste to the Es Pujols promenade for a nourishing breakfast that truly hits the spot. Café Miranda is a funky new addition to the area, overlooking the beach and featuring a mash up of 50s, 60s and 70s retro furniture and quirky props. A colourful, casual and upbeat affair, the cute café attracts a hip crowd looking for an early morning pick me up before hitting the beach for the remainder of the day. Super friendly, smiley staff, great beach views, fresh juices, flaky pastries and of course, fantastic coffee are the perfect complement to the quirky vintage design and décor –stepping back in time, Formentera style. www.cafemiranda.eu – +34 603 319 813

11.30am – Beach

After an invigorating morning, the next best thing to seek is a spot of sun, sand and vitamin sea! Since you’re already on the seafront at Es Pujols, it makes sense to stay in the area, with all the convenience of nearby shops, cafes and bars for snacks and drinks throughout the day – however it’s worth walking around the main town-like strip of beach, where the clean, white stretch of sand sweeps around the aqua blue waters and you reach a quiet cove dubbed Roca Bella by locals, so named for the hotel that presides over it. Here there is a much more family-oriented vibe and private feel with straw sun umbrellas perfectly placed along the shore to offer respite from the sun and creating a boho ambience.

2pm – Lunch

If you’re feeling peckish but do not want to leave the essence of the beach behind, head slightly ashore and grab a spot of shade at Tahiti, a stylish seaside hotel and restaurant with a super laid-back vibe. Bold turquoise cushions scatter sun dappled furniture in a Mediterranean-inspired setting, as you dine with your feet in the cool sand, soaking up the fresh sea air and tuck into tasty seasonal cuisine – star dishes include salmon tartare and a delicious tagliatelle, leaving you contently full enough to roll back to the beach to continue topping up that tan. www.tahiti.es – +34 971 328 122

6pm – Aperitif

There is truly no better time of day in Formentera than when the sun is low and gentle on your skin and the evening sky begins to fill with a soft amber glow. A calm but warm energy fills the air as the island starts to come alive for the evening – day trippers are on their way back to their respective destinations and the island takes on a true local’s feeing. It is exactly at this time of day when People – a cool and sophisticated beach kiosk on the spit between near Roca Bella’ –captures this feeling perfectly. Lounge on white bean bags and listen to a tranquil soundtrack while soaking up the last of the evening sun with an aperitif in hand, before heading back home to shake off those sandy feet and freshen up for dinner. www.people-formentera.com – +34 630 221 787

8.30pm – Shopping

Sant Ferran is famously known for its laid-back hippy vibes and unspoilt influences from the 60s that have stood the test of time. This village has a unique charm and soul in the evening, with the heart of the action taking place under a beautiful moonlit square and opposite a traditional whitewashed church. This is the place where the island’s original hippies used to congregate to dine and enjoy live music, and while the setting may have slightly evolved, the free-spirited ambience remains. Market stalls throughout the square and surrounding streets showcase the work of local artists, jewellers and more. Enjoy a sultry stroll before dinner to the sounds of live music courtesy of local buskers, as the pretty village begins to get busy with the arrival of the nightly dinner crowds.

9.30pm – Dinner

One of the standout restaurants in a square filled with too many options to choose from is Maricastaña, a fresh Sant Ferran restaurant concept with a boho-chic, contemporary twist. Experience a friendly and buzzing atmosphere on the stylish terrace, as you order from a menu comprised of modern Mediterranean dishes and unique global flavours – think typical Spanish tapas made with a high-end twist, street food classics given a fine dining upgrade, mouth watering fresh pastas and classic paell options. On weekends, the restaurant hosts Formentera’s most talented musicians on the terrace from 9pm – all the more reason to reserve a table. maricastañaformentera.com – +34 971 328 935

12am – Lights out!

An early night is in order after such a long day and Castavi Hotel & Apartments are recognised as one of the best places to stay in Formentera thanks to a fresh and modern interior combined with warm service, easy accessibility and beautiful location. On the cusp of Es Pujols, heading towards La Savina, this well-designed hotel balances itself between a bustling street and serene swimming pool space immersed in greenery and palms, with a view overlooking the salt flats and Sant Francesc in the distance. Offering a true home away from home feeling, you’re guaranteed to wake up cosy and rested – right in the heart of an authentic Formentera location. www.castavi.com – +34 971 328 521 Words and photos by Mimi Gerrard-Morgan Es Pujols main photo by Ana Lui

24 hours in Formentera – Sant Francesc and Illetes

To experience the true essence of Formentera, you need to head ashore – beyond those famous beach restaurants – and explore the colourful, character-filled villages and all the treasures within them. Starting with the island’s capital, Sant Francesc…

10am – Breakfast

A full day in Formentera requires a serious fuel-up and there’s no better way to kick start your adventures than with breakfast in the island’s capital, Sant Francesc. Here you’ll find CaNa Pepa – a kitsch Spanish finca buzzing with an eclectic crowd of cool hipsters and fashion-forward islanders, giving you a true taste of modern Formentera life. Watch the sleepy village awaken beneath the canopy of vibrant pink bougainvillea or relax and unwind in the intimate private courtyard overlooking the church. With fantastic coffee and an array of options to suit all appetites – including Formentera’s finest eggs Benedict and scrumptious homemade pancakes – breakfast at CaNaPepa sets you up for the day nicely. www.canapepa.com – +34 608 576 060   

12pm – Shopping

A post-breakfast stroll throughout Sant Francesc is obligatory. A hub of creativity and craftsmanship, the independent boutiques peppered throughout the village showcase a unique fusion of fashion, interiors and culture that define Formentera. Top local picks include hand-made jewellery by Lorenzo Pepe, one-off fashion finds from Rhei, classic high-end fashion from Muy – also filled with plenty of dreamy interior design inspiration – and contemporary clothing, hip accessories and trendy homewares from Balafia. Market stalls scattered throughout the centre every morning during the summer mix modern day influences with an authentic bohemian style that is hard to find anywhere else in the world.

2pm – Lunch

If all that shopping has built up an appetite, head to the white sandy shores of the world-famous beach, Illetes – after a picturesque ten-minute drive through La Savina – and walk up to Es Moli de Sal for lunch. This old white mill on the hill has been transformed into a stylish eatery filled with comfy, driftwood furnishing, offering one the best view points on the island, with the beach of Illetes on one side, the port of La Savina on the other and Es Vedra in the distance on the horizon. The menu is a typical Mediterranean affair, with distinctive Formentera touches – the paella and potato gnocchi are not to be missed – and an extensive wine list provides the finishing touch to wash it down. Es Moli de Sal has been known to attract celebrities and royalty, including the King of Spain from time to time, so reservations are essential. esmolidesal.es/en/ – +34 971 187 491

5pm – Sun, sea and swimming

Sun worshippers rejoice – there are still plenty of hours left in the day to soak up that blazing Mediterranean sunshine and after lunch is the ideal time of day to hit Illetes. Year after year, this stunning playa is declared one of Europe’s most beautiful beaches and it’s easy to see why, with its seemingly endless strip of white sand and crystalline shallow waters that rival the Caribbean. Mix with the jet set, who are constantly streaming into the beach from their luxury yachts moored a little further out at sea, the Italian expat community, local Formentera families and day-trippers from Ibiza – all vying for a sunbed or a patch of sand of which to call their own for the day. Once you’ve pitched up, the best thing to do is, quite simply, nothing! Just sit back, relax and enjoy this slice of heaven!

9pm – Sunset

When you’re on this side of Formentera, the sunset is simply too good to miss so when you’re done with the beach, head into über-popular beach club Beso Beach – quite simply the place to be on Illetes as dusk falls. As the sun goes down, the action at Beso Beach heats up – it’s impossible not to be drawn in by the music and electric atmosphere. Sip on the beach club’s signature mojitos on the sand as you feel the last of the day’s warm sun as you soak up the scenery, good music and good vibes. If you’re in the mood for a party, this is the place to get it started – be warned, spontaneous table dancing has been known to happen quite regularly! www.besobeach.com/ – +34 971 931 204

9.30pm – Dinner

Ca Na Joana was born five years ago in one of the oldest houses in Formentera – a 17^th century building tucked neatly away from the town centre – and is now considered one of the best restaurants in Formentera. Combining traditional Spanish architecture with soft hanging lights and elegant detailing such as a stunning archway of flowers flowing over the rooftop and allowing space for quirky touches throughout, it boasts a warm and peaceful ambience and is the perfect setting for a romantic, candle-lit dinner. The exquisite Mediterranean-inspired cuisine and the warm, welcoming service allows you to feel at home here. There is no formal dress code despite its high-end reputation – expect a relaxed affair where it’s as acceptable to come straight from the beach as it is to get dressed up and feel as fancy as the furnishings! www.canajoanaformentera.com – + 34 971 323 160

11pm – Live music

For a change of scenery and some entertainment with true Formentera soul, head to Fonda Plate for authenticity, happy vibes and soulful music. This bar is very representative of the historic image of Sant Francesc and home to some of the best live music on the island, any night of the week. Centred in the middle of town with a vine-covered terrace adorned in white fairy lights opposite the church, this truly is the heart of Formentera by night. Dance the night away to one of the island’s most-sought after local bands who have no trouble in getting the crowd on their feet and creating an environment filled with energy, alongside locals and holidaymakers looking to make their night last longer. +34 971 322 313

12.30am – Late night hangs

A great place for late night hangs or pre-clubbing drinks, Sabor boasts chilled out music and a quirky, Renaissance-inspired interior with comfy seating. There’s a certain charisma and urban edge about this Italian-run night spot. Friendly and fun, Sabor Ibérico attracts the local hipster community, offering an atmosphere where you can sit and relax, sipping on a glass of wine or cocktail at your own pace. Well, at least until last drinks are called at 2am! +34 611 254 875

2am – Lights out!

Blending in neatly with its surroundings thanks to minimal white decor, soft furnishings and subtle Spanish influences, this luxurious contemporary hotel respects the beauty and tranquillity of the village. The ideal place for a blissful nights sleep after a busy day in Formentera, Es Mares Hotel & Spa is centred in the middle of Sant Francesc and possesses a serenity that allows you to disconnect from the rest of the world. Rest your head on luxurious fluffy pillows and delve into crisp white sheets and enjoy your beauty sleep before arising for a morning of spa treatments, a dip in the courtyard pool or a gym workout. Another 24 hours in Formentera awaits. https://hotelesmares.com/ – +34 971 323 216 Words and photos by Mimi Gerrard-Morgan Illetes photo by Ana Lui

Formentera: Magical nights

The scent of night blooming flowers floats on the light breeze as it rustles the treetops and causes the wild sea grass on the sand dunes to sway elegantly. Formentera nights are a heavenly escape from the hedonism across the waters. You just need to get off the boat and find a bed for the night… It all begins at the bewitching hour of dusk. Beachgoers head ashore to the island’s chiringuitos, bars and restaurants with sandy feet and salty hair, swept up in the romance as the sky turns from blue to gold, pink, orange, gold and deep purple. A sense of peace envelops the island, from the A-list haven of Illetes and the sunset lookout at Cala Saona to the endless stretch of Migjorn; all the way up to the hills of La Mola and over to the lighthouse at Cap de Barbaria and beyond. Another day in paradise has come to an end.

While the day may have ended, the night is just beginning and although nights in Formentera may not be as wild or as varied as Ibiza, they offer many different experiences. For some, come sunset, it’s time to head home – to your villa, apartment, beach bungalow or hotel – and hit the hay early, revelling in the peaceful, long night of sleep ahead. For others, it signifies the start of a decadent dining experience and here the island’s culinary stars shine as bright as those in the sky. Spending the night in Formentera opens up a whole new world of gastronomic possibilities. While many associate the island with long lazy beach lunches, paella, seafood and sangria, after dark all the dining action takes place inland and takes a more creative turn. Discover high-end dining with a Michelin star (the illustrious Can Dani), alfresco farm to table in the middle of an organic garden (A Mi Manera), deluxe Mediterranean feasts (Can Carlos), conscious cravings (Bufambo) and all the Italian you can eat – from pizza by the slice in roadside eateries and hearty classics like mama used to make to incredible haute cuisine creations.

When the final digestifs have been downed and the aromatic coffee has provided that much needed after dinner perk up, it’s time to head off into the Formentera night. Home to bed or out for an après-dinner stroll? A quick nightcap or dancing all night long? The beauty of Formentera nightlife is it has all of this and more. If the allure of a midnight stroll is calling your name, the charming wooden walkways weaving their way between the sand dunes are softly lit and provide the perfect platform, while the cobblestone village squares also hold a sense of old-school romance. The villages of Formentera truly come alive at night. In Sant Ferran, stroll the night market – filled with art, jewellery and handcrafts – where there is plenty of opportunity for retail therapy, as the adjacent open-air bars and restaurants hum with the lively buzz of people. Nearby, Sant Francesc often has live bands performing in the square between restaurants and bars – all local festivals are celebrated here and it’s a hive of social activity. Flower Power. Swing festivals. Jazz festivals. Blues festivals. Balearic traditions. There’s always a reason to get involved.

Back towards the seaside, the most buzzing area of all is Es Pujols – the only part of the island to be home to nightclubs and a bustling seaside promenade. True – this is perhaps the most touristic area, however if you want to dance ‘til dawn, Tipic and Pineta are the places to be. International DJs do flow through Formentera, but are generally more underneath the radar. For example, legendary Ibiza party Cocoon have held a residency at Tipic for the past six seasons and have had guests including Sven Väth and Richie Hawtin, but the party itself still remains relatively underground. When you do finally head home, it’s easy to fall asleep as you listen to the sounds of silence. If you’re staying by the beach, leaving a window open will allow the sounds of the waves lapping the shore help you drift off to dreamland. If you’re in the campo, you’ll hear those treetops rustling and perhaps some singing cicadas on a hot summer night. The peace and quiet is a blissful respite from the ‘real world’ – no cars, no foot traffic, no footsteps from the apartment upstairs, no loud music thumping in the distance. All is calm. All seems right with the world.

Formentera: Freedom

The lone wishing tree rising from the rocks at the very furthest tip of Playa Migjorn could be considered symbolic of Formentera’s sense of freedom. Because it is right here, under the bright Balearic sun, where people – grown-up people – feel free to believe in magic. Tying a little shell to a barren branch fills their hearts with hope, manifesting the feeling that anything is possible. If you can dream it, you can live it in Formentera. The sense of freedom on Ibiza’s sister island extends far beyond the wishing tree. It is felt from the very first minute you step ashore. It’s as if time stands still here, with no rules, no ‘have tos’ and no commitments. Going to Formentera is like pressing pause on daily life – be it for a day, a week, a month or more – the very antithesis of contemporary living.

Those visitors who says “I’ll check my emails” or “We’ll keep in touch” suddenly drop off the radar with no explanation after arriving in Formentera. Going off the grid has never been easier (or more appropriate), and more than one formerly stressed out holidaymaker has been heard to declare: “The phone reception over here is terrible and I can’t seem to get onto WiFi anywhere” with absolutely zero guilt once they’ve relaxed into authentic Formentera life. Developing an allergy to technology is quite normal here – it’s one of the last remaining places where you can still see tables of diners laughing and interacting rather than Instagramming their food and taking endless selfies to prove they’re having fun. There’s certainly no space for a laptop in your beach bag when it’s crammed full of icy cold beers and fresh Formentera figs, thrown carelessly over your shoulder as you zoom across the island on a scooter, with the salty sea air on your skin and the wind in your hair.

Formentera hasn’t always been known for embracing freedom. It suffered enormously at the hands of Franco’s fascist regime in the 1930s, becoming a location for a concentration camp holding political prisoners awaiting execution. Hippies, draft-dodgers, gays, musicians and artists began flocking to the island in search of freedom in the 60s, and while Franco’s Nationalist Forces tried for a short while to expel them, after the dictator’s death in 1976, Formentera once again asserted itself as the island of the people. Perhaps the island’s troubled past is why the idea of freedom is so important to those who inhabit the island today – be it by birth right or by choice. A celebration of triumph over tragedy. Like a phoenix rising from the ashes, Formentera has emerged as a destination where freedom is not only sought, it is found. In Formentera today, you can feel free to do whatever you want and be whoever you are. The bohemia associated with the island’s past lingers in the villages, on the beaches and in the countryside.

There is no dress code in Formentera; fine dining restaurants welcome diners in flip-flops and naked sunbathers are a regular sight on the spectacular beaches. Having a drink – be it coffee spiked with brandy, beer or a mojito – with breakfast is the norm. Making plans is something best left for another place, another time. On some days, bedtime might come as early as 8pm, on other nights you’ll stay up and watch the sunrise before retiring at 8am. Under the watchful eye of Bartolo, the owner of the beach shack on brightly painted blue stilts, the wishing tree stands proudly, tinkling with strings of shells representing the wishes of hundreds of people, from all over the world. Only in a place like Formentera can a once-barren tree like this can evolve into a thing of ethereal beauty – almost as if by magic. Flee the stress, escape the crowds, let freedom reign…

Two days in another paradise

Most people would say I live in paradise. Most of the time, I would have to agree with them. But even when you live in paradise, there are times when you just have to get away. So where does a girl from Ibiza go to when she needs a weekend mini-break, with not too much time spent in transit, and she wants nothing but relaxation, sunshine, food, the occasional cocktail and (most importantly) peace? Formentera, obvs. Last weekend I was lucky enough to be able to escape the hustle and bustle of Ibiza life for a full 48 hours on Ibiza’s bohemian little sister island. It might not sound like much, but every minute in Formentera feels like10 in Ibiza time. Time seems to go slower over there – it’s just so relaxed, there’s nowhere to be at any given time, no commitments, no rush, no stress, no pasa nada…

If you asked me what I did for two days, I’d find it difficult to explain it to you. There was food. There was sleep. There was a scooter. There were beaches. There were a lot of knots in my hair. There was a lot of sun (I came home with a tan!). There were two sunsets. There was crystal clear water. There was an amazing little burger shack. There were boquerones on deck chairs on some rocks. There were mojitos in the sand. There were tins of beer. There were hippies (and I don’t mean modern day bohos – I mean the real deal, leftover from the 60s and playing psychedelic guitar). There was nothing but happiness. But if you asked me where any of that stuff took place, I swear, I couldn’t tell you. It all just flowed beautifully into one place after another.

You see, that’s the beauty of Formentera to me. Unlike Ibiza, when you go off the beaten track in Formentera, there are no websites to guide you to the cool, hip hangouts. There are no magazines telling you what dish is famous in what restaurant. No celebrities setting trends, though I must say, I think a lot of the people of Formentera are VERY stylish indeed – effortless chic. No ‘underground haunts’ or ‘residents faves’ – well, of course there are, but you have to BE a resident or know one, you can’t just read about it and turn up! Sure – you’ve got your Beso Beach and Juan y Andrea. There are million dollar boats clogging up the crystalline sea at Illetes. There’s a Michelin starred restaurant. There’s even Cocoon parties at the teensy tiny club Tipic. But that’s not my Formentera. That’s Formentera for the Ibiza jet set. My Formentera is totally chilled.

Formentera is like unexplored territory for me. I don’t bump into someone I know on every corner. I don’t care about wearing make-up. I’m not worried if my bikini doesn’t exactly match my kaftan. And – amazingly after living in Ibiza for such a long time – you do not hear a single 4/4 beat in any restaurant, shop or bar. Formentera is blissfully stuck in the 80s and 90s, complete with a stadium and classic rock soundtrack, with the occasional mullet and skinhead to match (I didn’t say they were ALL stylish). As I boarded the ferry back to Ibiza on Monday morning, ready to head back to another week of work, it was impossible to feel sad about leaving. How could you, when coming back to Ibiza is reality? But it’s definitely a tale of two islands for me – one for work and play, the other for total disconnection and relaxation. I’m not sure you’d really like it. Yep, actually, forget I ever said anything. Formentera is terrible. Horrible. Hate the place. Wouldn’t recommend it to anyone…

The thing about Es Ram…

All in the name of research. Of course, Miss W was invited to join them… and when my home away from home option was Formentera’s amazing Es Ram Resort, well, how could I possibly say no?

Don’t get too jealous now – unfortunately (for me!) I was only to be a guest at Es Ram for a couple of days – it’s a bit hard to be the eyes and ears of Ibiza all the way over in Formentera now isn’t it? But then again, once you’ve experienced the laidback, low-key luxury of Es Ram, it’s pretty tempting to jump ship (or island as the case may be). Let me explain…

I was frazzled when I arrived at Es Ram. Having caught the early ferry to Formentera that day, I’d been in and out of meetings for hours – yes, some people do indeed do business in Formentera – and traversing the island in a hire car with the air con on full due to the peak August heat outside. And then, we drove up what seems to be the only mountain in Formentera, w-a-a-y up to the top, only do go back down again, along a bumpy, dusty trail through a beautiful pine forest, which ultimately led to the place I’d been dreaming of alllllll day.

Hello Es Ram Resort, I’m very pleased to meet you…

We were met by suave hotel manager Javier (‘no, no, leave all your luggage, we’ll have that taken to your room for you immediately’ – I LOVE this place already), followed by a super friendly personal greeting from the hotel’s close-knit team of staff, a team of young, professional, switched on, well-traveled, multi-lingual and more importantly, really cool people I instantly wanted to make friends with. I could feel myself actually getting that authentic HOLIDAY feeling… under the influence of the calm nature of everyone around me, not to mention the truly breathtaking surroundings.

Lush pine trees, gorgeous idyllic views across the Mediterranean, a smattering of luxe, four-poster day beds across the resort’s grounds, a gorgeously chic and inviting swimming pool, even an outdoor gym – I hadn’t felt this close to nature since, well, never… There was that pesky ‘I’m-on-holiday’ again feeling, creeping over me like the beautiful bougainvillea on the walls of the main house finca-style building of the resort.

There are only 10 boho-chic suites at Es Ram and after a tour of the entire resort, I was absolutely dying to get to mine! It was still daylight and I wanted a quick costume change before heading to the chillout roof terrace for a sunset aperitivo.

Let me let you in on a little secret here: I have never, ever witnessed a Formentera sunset before because I have never, ever spent more than a day ashore. It’s just that I’m such an Ibiza girl, I can’t bear to leave my island for more than a day trip in summer… but right here, right now, as I opened the door to my room, I had an inkling that was all about to change (plus, the last ferry had already sailed. I had no choice but to stay!).

OK – so a quick debrief on the room. Gorgeous four-poster wooden bed, plush pillows, soft romantic lighting, huge bathroom, views to the treetops, amazing mirror that seemed to make me look über-thin and a bottle of champagne (yes, the real French stuff) and fruit platter awaited. Yes indeed, I could totally get used to this place, I thought to myself as I started envisioning myself becoming a true Formentera girl.

Costume change complete (full length kaftan in tribute to Formentera’s hippy heritage) and champagne totally quaffed, I ascended to the rooftop to meet my companions, who were already set up on big comfy daybeds, schmoozing with New York fashion royalty (I’m afraid I can’t name names) while sipping icy cold mojitos and admiring the view.

It was the very picture of laidback chic. And the very epitome of a holiday feeling. I quickly stuffed my notepad into my bag and set about the business of relaxation. Result achieved in approximately 32 seconds, three sips of a mojito and a bite of a freshly prepared canape!

Chillout music floated across the airwaves, intertwined with the sound of the sea crashing onto the rocky coastline below (a rarity in Ibiza) and as the sun began her descent into the sea (cue a teary emotional ‘I heart Formentera forever’ moment) we contemplated how to spend the night ahead. Personally, I wanted to dive into that big old bed and fall into dreamland, but there was the matter of hunger to attend to first.

The beauty of Es Ram Resort is that their kitchen and chef are ready, willing and on standby to rustle up anything (fresh, organic, healthy and hearty – the choice is yours) your heart desires. On top of that, the team are basically like your personal go-to-guide to Formentera’s best restaurants, having them all on speed dial and being able to arrange you the best tables whenever you wish.

Did I mention I could get used to this?

After an amazingly luxe dinner at the hotel’s sister restaurant Chezz Gerdi Chiringuito and a quick pass through the local club Tipic, it was back to Es Ram for the best night’s sleep of my life. That bed! I don’t know where they get them, but it was worth triple the price of a room for such comfort. Like a full body hug you really didn’t ever want to be released from. Until you discovered the path down to the secret beach, dotted with daybeds and like a little slice of heaven just perched on the edge of Formentera.

At the end of my stay however, I finally discovered the real problem with Es Ram Resort. The problem is, that two days is just not enough! Not even for a Formentera girl like me…