24 hours in Formentera

From beachfront yoga and authentic hippy markets to magical full moon parties by the sea, here you’ll find many a place honouring the island’s bohemian roots. Once you’ve experienced island culture beyond the famous boats and beach restaurants, typical Formentera life leaves you craving so much more…

8.30am – Yoga

No Formentera holiday is complete without a session of morning yoga and the tranquil side of Playa de Migjorn is the ideal setting to explore ‘un camino de vida’.  As the rest of the island awakens from its slumber, Gecko Beach Club hosts complimentary classes for guests every day, while those seeking a drop in class can visit Hostel Aigua Clara where professional and experienced, health conscious instructors offer unique yoga workshops every morning in front of the sea, to awaken the body and take you on a spiritual journey whilst surrounded by nature. www.hostalaiguaclara.com – +34 622 306 198

10am – Breakfast

The most important meal of the day is also made even better with sea views, and Las Playas Dunas is one of Formentera’s best kept secret spots – one that’s well worth the dusty journey along sandy track roads leading to another section of Playa de Migjorn. Tucked within sand dunes, this traditional and charming Spanish breakfast spot is open from 9am and offers spectacular views of the deep blue sea. Tuck into a delicious buffet breakfast on the beachy terrace leading out the inviting infinity pool, which echoes the curve of the cliffside. www.dunasplaya.com –+43 971 32 80 52

12pm – Beach

Located to the left of the ribbon of road leading towards La Mola is the secluded beach of Es Calo – its unspoiled rugged cliffside offering a distinct change from the vastness of Playa de Migjorn. A stretch of the stunning cliffside plunges into the sea, creating a unique view and protected bay in which to swim. Three small coves appear like perfect blue lagoons with soft sandy shores, visited primarily by locals due to the secluded location. A tranquil resting point for a couple of hours of ‘you time’ before getting back on the road again.

2pm – Lunch

The journey up to La Mola is a breezy, sight-seeing spectacle with the added bonus of finding parts of the island you didn’t know existed. Recently refurbished, with a Mediterranean inspired interior and a menu brimming with fresh seafood dishes, Can Pascual competes as one of the best fish restaurants on the island. Tastefully decorated with organic wood and bamboo furnishings, polished concrete floors and fresh whites combined with tropical, glass bottle greens. Open-plan seating merges the inside with out, for a trendy, cool and collected place to stop for lunch. www.canpasqualrestaurant.com – +34 971 327 014

5.30pm – Hippy Market

Every Wednesday and Sunday from May to October, the island’s local creators, artists and musicians gather from 5pm at the authentic Hippy Market in the village of La Mola, at the highest southern point of the island. Here, you can feel the essence of original bohemian Formentera life. The joyful and colourful market is reminiscent of a time when hippies from around the world were beckoned by the freedom and peace Formentera could afford them. The space is transformed into a lively centre of culture where you can shop for a variety of fashion creations, ceramics, and handmade jewellery, while live music plays for a relaxed and fun afternoon.

7.30pm – Sunset

A visit to La Mola is made even more worth the drive up the winding mountain road by the unique and striking birds-eye view of the island from the top. This sight is best seen towards the end of the day, most notably at sunset when the outline of the island is prominent and glowing beneath the candy floss sky. There is a perfect lookout point midway at El Mirador restaurant, where you can stop for a sundowner and absorb the unique scenery before you descend the mountain. +34 971 327 037

9.30pm – Dinner

Sometimes you have to travel that extra mile to find some place special. With a true sense of exclusivity, this quaint, stylish and homely restaurant is hidden in the forest, at the base of the hillside leading to La Mola. Fairy lights light the pathway to a cosy hammock area where you can enjoy an aperitif before indulging in Italian-influenced cuisine with a modern Mediterranean twist. It is neither fussy nor pretentious but calm and comforting – owned and run by two respectful Italian brothers whose passion, charm and sophistication is reflected in their service, and quirky and inventive touches such as homemade flavoured breads. +34 971 327 472

11.30pm – Drinks

One cannot leave Formentera without a visit to the famous Blue Bar and thankfully, this sunset spot is also a popular moonlight haunt. Open until 4am nightly, Blue Bar opened in the 60s and was later transformed into a cosmic inspired chill-out, hosting unforgettable sunsets, magnificent views and trance vibes. Legends such as Bob Marley and Pink Floyd have frequented this bar over the years (among others), though it’s now renowned for an eclectic mix of music from visiting and resident DJs. Choose between grooving on the tiered seating overlooking the sea, dancing beneath the moon and the stars or in the quirky interior. www.bluebarformentera.com – +34 666 75 81 90

1am – Sleep

Inspired by the seaside elegance of the 50s, Gecko Beach Club & Hotel invites cosmopolitan travellers to experience their very own version of a ‘Balearic Riviera’. Rooms are decorated in neutral colour palettes, with retro inspired furniture, lots of floor to ceiling glass and mirrors. Superior rooms include swish private patios and terraces with panoramic views of Playa de Migjorn or the hotel’s lush gardens, which overlook the beach. It’s impossible not to sleep well when this is your home away from home for the night. www.geckobeachclub.com – +34 971 328 024 Words and photos by Mimi Gerrard-Morgan Main Es Calo photo by Ana Lui

24 hours in Formentera – Cala Saona, Cap de Barbaria and Playa de Migjorn

Ibiza’s ‘little’ sister is indeed a small island, however she is brimming with things to do and places to see.  With everything in such close proximity, it’s easy to plan an itinerary that covers all bases from sightseeing and exploring to relaxation and dining. From the famed west coast hotspot of Cala Saona down to the beautiful lookout point of Cap de Barbaria and along the striking stretch of southern coastline of Playa de Migjorn, you can find everything you need for a mindful, fun and fulfilling day in Formentera.

9am – Breakfast

Start your day at one of the island’s newest trendy cafés: Mama Coco, perched on the cusp of Sant Francesc’s main street (leading to Cala Saona). This buzzing little hotspot is popular with the locals, boasting an industrial inspired interior with polished concrete walls, neon lighting plus succulents and cacti. Watch the world go by over a light bite or croissant and coffee in the shaded seating area and catch up with the local daily news with a free Spanish newspaper – Google Translate and the pictures can help tell the story if you’re not fluent. +34 604 191 090  

10.30am – Sightseeing

The lighthouse at Cap de Barbaria is an impressive sight in the early morning due to the beauty of its vast landscape – the vista extends all the way to the African coast. Its role in various films and commercials over the years has brought this stunning location to the attention to many sightseers, and today it is one of the most prominent attractions in Formentera. Located on the southernmost tip of the island, past Cala Saona via a long, scenic stretch of country road that leads you to an expansive rocky environment, its breath-taking views and peaceful atmosphere are a perfect match for its splendour. A new conservation-inspired rule has recently been enforced, meaning all cars must be parked at the entrance and the lighthouse is only accessible on foot, so be prepared for a 15-minute walk each way. The true wow factor hits when you finally arrive to see those panoramic views of the Mediterranean Sea and the horizon, where it really does feel as if you have arrived at the end of the earth.

12pm – Spa

Rejuvenate your mind, body and soul by taking a short respite at one of Formentera’s leading hotels and spas – Hotel Cala Saona – where you can enjoy a holistic wellness experience immersed in the surrounding natural beauty of Formentera. Choose from an extensive range of regenerative and detoxifying body and facial treatments and massages, are all customised to suit your needs and accompanied by stunning views of Cala Saona. Follow this with a dip in the hotel’s pool or pop down to the beach to swim in its equally transparent waters before continuing on with the day. www.hotelcalasaona.com – +34 971 322 030

2.30pm – Lunch

This typical Spanish restaurant is well known for its traditional Mediterranean cuisine and authentic paella dishes. Tucked into the cliffside at Cala Saona, you can dine in the comfort of this cool, light and breezy beach bistro while overlooking the sand and the sea, soaking up the lively ambience and mouth-watering scents wafting out of the kitchen, where a taste of the traditional is being lovingly prepared with fresh-caught catches of the day. Mind you, make a reservation early or be rapido, as this place fills up for lunch fast! +34 871 551 575

4.30pm – Beach

Afternoons in Formentera are the ideal time to reflect and cool off as the typical island breeze arrive in the later hours of the day. The covert cove of Cala Saona is a magical destination – paddle in the shallow turquoise waters that lead out to deep blue sea, protected by the sweeping wall of sandstone cliffs and authentic Formentera fishing shacks scattered on the rocks beneath. This beach has a very different feel to the rest of the beaches in Formentera – it evokes a sense of nostalgic for those returning and creates a treasured memory for first timers.

7pm – Sundowners

For a true taste of local life, Kiosko 62 is an alternative experience not to be missed, especially as the sunset hour creeps in. This weathered and character-filled wooden beach shack on the sandy rocks of Playa de Migjorn faces out to sea and is everything you expect from a Formentera beach bar. Slightly off the beaten track and not overly crowded, it offers affordable drinks, a no frills service and laid-back atmosphere – the perfect place to unwind. The ambience comes alive as dusk falls and people relax to the sound of reggae and lounge music alongside the gentle sea breeze. +34 697 840 795

9.30pm – Dinner

Casbah Restaurant is set in a stylish hotel of the same name in the heart of the most authentic and rural part of Formentera, just a stone’s throw from Playa de Migjorn. The restaurant’s architectural design cleverly merges nature with modernity for an immersive dining experience. Glass walls reflect the lush greenery, pines and palms that encompass the luxurious gardens, creating an environment that emits calm from every corner. The smell of pine and the soundtrack of cicadas are complemented by a rich and varied gastronomic offering – think classic Mediterranean fresh fish, exquisite grilled meats prepared with a cutting-edge twist, signature rice and pasta dishes, some fine dining classics and Spanish tapas favourites, all served under the balmy summer sky. www.hotelcasbahformentera.com – +34 971 322 051

11.30pm – Cocktails

For a change of scenery, take a drive through the campo and vineyards, to follow a picturesque winding road leading towards the main town until you reach the magical fairy-lit surrounds of famed Formentera restaurant Can Carlos. Treat yourself to a fruity classic cocktail, or spicy new infusion whipped up by one of the professional and dapper bartenders shaking, stirring and serving up the island’s finest each night. Each cocktail is made with love and precision, using fresh ingredient, with presentation that is most definitely Instagram-worthy! www.cancarlos.com – +34 971 322 874

1am – Sleep

This recently renovated luxury apartment complex is a sanctuary on the tranquil side of Playa de Migjorn, set amidst a forest of beautifully scented pines. The architecture resonates with the authentic essence of Formentera, accentuating and complementing the Mediterranean surrounds. Carefully thought out interior design blends crisp whites, subtle greens and sunny yellows throughout, creating a calming, charming and unique home away from home. The beach is just a short walk from the complex for a refreshing early morning dip, although some bungalows come complete with the temptation of a private Jacuzzi. www.paraisodelospinos.com – +34 971 322 613 Words and photos by Mimi Gerrard-Morgan Illetes photo by Ana Lui

24 hours in Formentera – La Savina and Playa Llevant

The outside world is at touching distance and yet Formentera still feels like an exclusive and secluded paradise. The energy of La Savina ebbs and flows throughout the day as visitors filter on and off the endless fleet of ferries from Ibiza. At the end of the day, a subdued and gentle calmness is left behind, breeding a satisfying feeling of content for those who remain onshore, because just for a little while longer, you have the pleasure of indulging in the lesser-known Formentera life.

8.30am – Breakfast

A stone’s throw from the bustle of the main port, Quimera is a quiet and serene little situ for breakfast accompanied by an idyllic morning view. This newly-renovated hidden gem with ancestral Spanish heritage boasts a cosmopolitan atmosphere and Mediterranean style menu created by a Michelin star awarded chef, although breakfast is a relaxed affair. A tropical-inspired seating area on the breezy terrace overlooks L’Estany des Peix, a calm lagoon (complete with a covert beach) that leads out into the open sea, scattered with llaüts, the traditional local fishing boats. Watch the water glisten as boats roll in and out and fill up on a wholesome breakfast of freshly baked croissants or Grandma’s homemade scrambled eggs, washed down with a freshly squeezed juice – the perfect fuel-up for the day ahead. www.quimerarestaurant.com – +34 971 322 279

9.30am – SUP

The Stand Up Paddleboarding phenomenon shows no signs of slowing down in 2018 and Formentera’s calm waters are the ideal place to combine fun and exploration with balance, relaxation and strength. Saigu, in La Savina, gives you the opportunity to see Formentera from a new perspective, with professional SUP instructors leading you on a stunning scenic route around the north coast of the island, before wading through crystal clear waters and later arriving at the nature reserve of Es Palmador to explore the marine environment. Advance reservations for these early morning three-hour adventures are essential – suitable for all levels of experience. www.saiguformentera.com – +34 674 409 358

1.30pm – Lunch

This unexpected and unassuming little chiringuito is tucked neatly within the sand dunes of Playa Llevant and hidden from view, creating a discreet and tranquil lunch spot that’s far from the madding crowds. There is a certain type of Caribbean charm about its stripped back, rustic presentation, complete with wooden furniture and sandy floors sheltered beneath a cool wicker shade. Tantalising aromas of fresh seafood, rich pasta dishes and tapas escape from the kitchen, complemented by warm staff and attentive service until 8pm daily. www.kiosko-vapormanolito.business.site – +34 669 30 9 802

3.30pm – Beach

While it’s just a short stroll from the popular white sands of Illetes, Playa Llevant is a peaceful respite – which explains why this less familiar stretch of coastline is the place celebrities opt to spend their heady Formentera days (making it prone to the odd paparazzi). Soft white sand and a gentle breeze even in high summer create the most relaxing environment and depending on the daily wind change, the sea can alternate between a flat pond of transparent waters to a windsurfer’s paradise of turquoise crashing waves. Either way, a day spent here is one to remember.

8.30pm – Sunset drinks

Ibiza might be world-renowned for its famous sunset strip, but sunsets in Formentera are equally as spectacular. As the day winds down and as the air cools, the glorious sunset paints the Balearic sky intense shades of red, pink and orange on a clear night. This natural spectacle is always a must-see and can be viewed from many points around Las Salinas. Sa Sequi boasts a picture perfect setting, with the landscape of La Savina on the left and the hazy outline of Ibiza on the right. Carefully curated music complements the chilled atmosphere as the light slowly falls, illuminating the north of the island and effortlessly capturing the silhouette of Es Vedra on the horizon. www.sasequi.com – +34 622 853 340

10.30pm – Dinner

Ibiza’s most popular Brazilian hangout recently opened the tropical doors to its Formentera outpost on the dock of the bay in La Savina. Expect a tasty infusion of light, fresh and rich Japanese cuisine – a staple cuisine in the Brazilian diet since thousands of Japanese families migrated to the country after the First World War – plus the very finest Brazilian cocktails, all enjoyed with panoramic views of La Savina and the twinkling harbour at night. A fun and casual dining experience with warm, speedy service and authentic music – a buzzing way to either end your day or kick-start your Formentera night. www.temakinho.com – +34 602 645 973

11.30pm – Night cap

For some, the night is still young and the great advantage of dining in the port at La Savina is that the best bars are all within walking distance. Just a few steps away from Temakhino, Aigua offers a stylish lounging area ideal for a night cap – its cosy, candlelit setting on the picturesque marina is the ideal place to soak up the scenery. Kick back on low-slung seating and sip on expertly made cocktails; savour the sea breeze to the sounds of clinking boat masts and reflect on the day gone by. This is the part of Formentera life most day-trippers never get to experience. +34 971 323 322

12.30am – Sleep

Set on the cusp of the road leading from La Mola right through to La Savina, Can Aisha is a secluded sanctuary of calm and pure bliss, yet just minutes away from all the island’s action. This complex of five studio apartments with contemporary Spanish touches make for a highly inviting and comfortable stay. Each apartment shares a luxury garden area with a private swimming pool surrounded with cacti and soft white sun loungers. Chic is an understatement and whilst feeling very exclusive, the complex is perfectly positioned in proximity to the best beaches, bars and restaurants. With less than one kilometre drive away from each town, staying here means the island is your oyster! www.canaisha.com – +34 616 654 982 Words and photos by Mimi Gerrard-Morgan Playa Llevant photo by Ana Lui

24 hours in Formentera – Es Pujols and Sant Ferran

One of the fantastic advantages of visiting such a small island is that you can meander from one village to the next from day to night with ease, flitting back and forth to suit your mood and style. Pair the liveliness of Es Pujols by day with the chilled ambience of nearby Sant Ferran by night for a true taste of authentic island life.

6.30am – Horse riding

Getting the most out of a day in Formentera definitely requires an early start! There is no better way to experience the cooler, more tranquil hours of the morning, as the sleepy island awakes, than with a horse riding tour along the peaceful shores of Playa Llevant and Illetes. Led by local instructor Vicent Juan of Rutas Es Boixets horse riding club (situated on the dusty track between Es Pujols and Sant Francesc), this two-and-a-half hour seaside hack is suitable for experienced riders and beginners alike. From cantering across soft white sand and trotting over country terrain to striding through the shallow waters, this is an experience well worth getting out of bed early for. www.rutasesboixets.com – +34 669 572 896

10am – Breakfast

If your equestrian adventures have worked up an appetite, make haste to the Es Pujols promenade for a nourishing breakfast that truly hits the spot. Café Miranda is a funky new addition to the area, overlooking the beach and featuring a mash up of 50s, 60s and 70s retro furniture and quirky props. A colourful, casual and upbeat affair, the cute café attracts a hip crowd looking for an early morning pick me up before hitting the beach for the remainder of the day. Super friendly, smiley staff, great beach views, fresh juices, flaky pastries and of course, fantastic coffee are the perfect complement to the quirky vintage design and décor –stepping back in time, Formentera style. www.cafemiranda.eu – +34 603 319 813

11.30am – Beach

After an invigorating morning, the next best thing to seek is a spot of sun, sand and vitamin sea! Since you’re already on the seafront at Es Pujols, it makes sense to stay in the area, with all the convenience of nearby shops, cafes and bars for snacks and drinks throughout the day – however it’s worth walking around the main town-like strip of beach, where the clean, white stretch of sand sweeps around the aqua blue waters and you reach a quiet cove dubbed Roca Bella by locals, so named for the hotel that presides over it. Here there is a much more family-oriented vibe and private feel with straw sun umbrellas perfectly placed along the shore to offer respite from the sun and creating a boho ambience.

2pm – Lunch

If you’re feeling peckish but do not want to leave the essence of the beach behind, head slightly ashore and grab a spot of shade at Tahiti, a stylish seaside hotel and restaurant with a super laid-back vibe. Bold turquoise cushions scatter sun dappled furniture in a Mediterranean-inspired setting, as you dine with your feet in the cool sand, soaking up the fresh sea air and tuck into tasty seasonal cuisine – star dishes include salmon tartare and a delicious tagliatelle, leaving you contently full enough to roll back to the beach to continue topping up that tan. www.tahiti.es – +34 971 328 122

6pm – Aperitif

There is truly no better time of day in Formentera than when the sun is low and gentle on your skin and the evening sky begins to fill with a soft amber glow. A calm but warm energy fills the air as the island starts to come alive for the evening – day trippers are on their way back to their respective destinations and the island takes on a true local’s feeing. It is exactly at this time of day when People – a cool and sophisticated beach kiosk on the spit between near Roca Bella’ –captures this feeling perfectly. Lounge on white bean bags and listen to a tranquil soundtrack while soaking up the last of the evening sun with an aperitif in hand, before heading back home to shake off those sandy feet and freshen up for dinner. www.people-formentera.com – +34 630 221 787

8.30pm – Shopping

Sant Ferran is famously known for its laid-back hippy vibes and unspoilt influences from the 60s that have stood the test of time. This village has a unique charm and soul in the evening, with the heart of the action taking place under a beautiful moonlit square and opposite a traditional whitewashed church. This is the place where the island’s original hippies used to congregate to dine and enjoy live music, and while the setting may have slightly evolved, the free-spirited ambience remains. Market stalls throughout the square and surrounding streets showcase the work of local artists, jewellers and more. Enjoy a sultry stroll before dinner to the sounds of live music courtesy of local buskers, as the pretty village begins to get busy with the arrival of the nightly dinner crowds.

9.30pm – Dinner

One of the standout restaurants in a square filled with too many options to choose from is Maricastaña, a fresh Sant Ferran restaurant concept with a boho-chic, contemporary twist. Experience a friendly and buzzing atmosphere on the stylish terrace, as you order from a menu comprised of modern Mediterranean dishes and unique global flavours – think typical Spanish tapas made with a high-end twist, street food classics given a fine dining upgrade, mouth watering fresh pastas and classic paell options. On weekends, the restaurant hosts Formentera’s most talented musicians on the terrace from 9pm – all the more reason to reserve a table. maricastañaformentera.com – +34 971 328 935

12am – Lights out!

An early night is in order after such a long day and Castavi Hotel & Apartments are recognised as one of the best places to stay in Formentera thanks to a fresh and modern interior combined with warm service, easy accessibility and beautiful location. On the cusp of Es Pujols, heading towards La Savina, this well-designed hotel balances itself between a bustling street and serene swimming pool space immersed in greenery and palms, with a view overlooking the salt flats and Sant Francesc in the distance. Offering a true home away from home feeling, you’re guaranteed to wake up cosy and rested – right in the heart of an authentic Formentera location. www.castavi.com – +34 971 328 521 Words and photos by Mimi Gerrard-Morgan Es Pujols main photo by Ana Lui

24 hours in Formentera – Sant Francesc and Illetes

To experience the true essence of Formentera, you need to head ashore – beyond those famous beach restaurants – and explore the colourful, character-filled villages and all the treasures within them. Starting with the island’s capital, Sant Francesc…

10am – Breakfast

A full day in Formentera requires a serious fuel-up and there’s no better way to kick start your adventures than with breakfast in the island’s capital, Sant Francesc. Here you’ll find CaNa Pepa – a kitsch Spanish finca buzzing with an eclectic crowd of cool hipsters and fashion-forward islanders, giving you a true taste of modern Formentera life. Watch the sleepy village awaken beneath the canopy of vibrant pink bougainvillea or relax and unwind in the intimate private courtyard overlooking the church. With fantastic coffee and an array of options to suit all appetites – including Formentera’s finest eggs Benedict and scrumptious homemade pancakes – breakfast at CaNaPepa sets you up for the day nicely. www.canapepa.com – +34 608 576 060   

12pm – Shopping

A post-breakfast stroll throughout Sant Francesc is obligatory. A hub of creativity and craftsmanship, the independent boutiques peppered throughout the village showcase a unique fusion of fashion, interiors and culture that define Formentera. Top local picks include hand-made jewellery by Lorenzo Pepe, one-off fashion finds from Rhei, classic high-end fashion from Muy – also filled with plenty of dreamy interior design inspiration – and contemporary clothing, hip accessories and trendy homewares from Balafia. Market stalls scattered throughout the centre every morning during the summer mix modern day influences with an authentic bohemian style that is hard to find anywhere else in the world.

2pm – Lunch

If all that shopping has built up an appetite, head to the white sandy shores of the world-famous beach, Illetes – after a picturesque ten-minute drive through La Savina – and walk up to Es Moli de Sal for lunch. This old white mill on the hill has been transformed into a stylish eatery filled with comfy, driftwood furnishing, offering one the best view points on the island, with the beach of Illetes on one side, the port of La Savina on the other and Es Vedra in the distance on the horizon. The menu is a typical Mediterranean affair, with distinctive Formentera touches – the paella and potato gnocchi are not to be missed – and an extensive wine list provides the finishing touch to wash it down. Es Moli de Sal has been known to attract celebrities and royalty, including the King of Spain from time to time, so reservations are essential. esmolidesal.es/en/ – +34 971 187 491

5pm – Sun, sea and swimming

Sun worshippers rejoice – there are still plenty of hours left in the day to soak up that blazing Mediterranean sunshine and after lunch is the ideal time of day to hit Illetes. Year after year, this stunning playa is declared one of Europe’s most beautiful beaches and it’s easy to see why, with its seemingly endless strip of white sand and crystalline shallow waters that rival the Caribbean. Mix with the jet set, who are constantly streaming into the beach from their luxury yachts moored a little further out at sea, the Italian expat community, local Formentera families and day-trippers from Ibiza – all vying for a sunbed or a patch of sand of which to call their own for the day. Once you’ve pitched up, the best thing to do is, quite simply, nothing! Just sit back, relax and enjoy this slice of heaven!

9pm – Sunset

When you’re on this side of Formentera, the sunset is simply too good to miss so when you’re done with the beach, head into über-popular beach club Beso Beach – quite simply the place to be on Illetes as dusk falls. As the sun goes down, the action at Beso Beach heats up – it’s impossible not to be drawn in by the music and electric atmosphere. Sip on the beach club’s signature mojitos on the sand as you feel the last of the day’s warm sun as you soak up the scenery, good music and good vibes. If you’re in the mood for a party, this is the place to get it started – be warned, spontaneous table dancing has been known to happen quite regularly! www.besobeach.com/ – +34 971 931 204

9.30pm – Dinner

Ca Na Joana was born five years ago in one of the oldest houses in Formentera – a 17^th century building tucked neatly away from the town centre – and is now considered one of the best restaurants in Formentera. Combining traditional Spanish architecture with soft hanging lights and elegant detailing such as a stunning archway of flowers flowing over the rooftop and allowing space for quirky touches throughout, it boasts a warm and peaceful ambience and is the perfect setting for a romantic, candle-lit dinner. The exquisite Mediterranean-inspired cuisine and the warm, welcoming service allows you to feel at home here. There is no formal dress code despite its high-end reputation – expect a relaxed affair where it’s as acceptable to come straight from the beach as it is to get dressed up and feel as fancy as the furnishings! www.canajoanaformentera.com – + 34 971 323 160

11pm – Live music

For a change of scenery and some entertainment with true Formentera soul, head to Fonda Plate for authenticity, happy vibes and soulful music. This bar is very representative of the historic image of Sant Francesc and home to some of the best live music on the island, any night of the week. Centred in the middle of town with a vine-covered terrace adorned in white fairy lights opposite the church, this truly is the heart of Formentera by night. Dance the night away to one of the island’s most-sought after local bands who have no trouble in getting the crowd on their feet and creating an environment filled with energy, alongside locals and holidaymakers looking to make their night last longer. +34 971 322 313

12.30am – Late night hangs

A great place for late night hangs or pre-clubbing drinks, Sabor boasts chilled out music and a quirky, Renaissance-inspired interior with comfy seating. There’s a certain charisma and urban edge about this Italian-run night spot. Friendly and fun, Sabor Ibérico attracts the local hipster community, offering an atmosphere where you can sit and relax, sipping on a glass of wine or cocktail at your own pace. Well, at least until last drinks are called at 2am! +34 611 254 875

2am – Lights out!

Blending in neatly with its surroundings thanks to minimal white decor, soft furnishings and subtle Spanish influences, this luxurious contemporary hotel respects the beauty and tranquillity of the village. The ideal place for a blissful nights sleep after a busy day in Formentera, Es Mares Hotel & Spa is centred in the middle of Sant Francesc and possesses a serenity that allows you to disconnect from the rest of the world. Rest your head on luxurious fluffy pillows and delve into crisp white sheets and enjoy your beauty sleep before arising for a morning of spa treatments, a dip in the courtyard pool or a gym workout. Another 24 hours in Formentera awaits. https://hotelesmares.com/ – +34 971 323 216 Words and photos by Mimi Gerrard-Morgan Illetes photo by Ana Lui

Formentera: Magical nights

The scent of night blooming flowers floats on the light breeze as it rustles the treetops and causes the wild sea grass on the sand dunes to sway elegantly. Formentera nights are a heavenly escape from the hedonism across the waters. You just need to get off the boat and find a bed for the night… It all begins at the bewitching hour of dusk. Beachgoers head ashore to the island’s chiringuitos, bars and restaurants with sandy feet and salty hair, swept up in the romance as the sky turns from blue to gold, pink, orange, gold and deep purple. A sense of peace envelops the island, from the A-list haven of Illetes and the sunset lookout at Cala Saona to the endless stretch of Migjorn; all the way up to the hills of La Mola and over to the lighthouse at Cap de Barbaria and beyond. Another day in paradise has come to an end.

While the day may have ended, the night is just beginning and although nights in Formentera may not be as wild or as varied as Ibiza, they offer many different experiences. For some, come sunset, it’s time to head home – to your villa, apartment, beach bungalow or hotel – and hit the hay early, revelling in the peaceful, long night of sleep ahead. For others, it signifies the start of a decadent dining experience and here the island’s culinary stars shine as bright as those in the sky. Spending the night in Formentera opens up a whole new world of gastronomic possibilities. While many associate the island with long lazy beach lunches, paella, seafood and sangria, after dark all the dining action takes place inland and takes a more creative turn. Discover high-end dining with a Michelin star (the illustrious Can Dani), alfresco farm to table in the middle of an organic garden (A Mi Manera), deluxe Mediterranean feasts (Can Carlos), conscious cravings (Bufambo) and all the Italian you can eat – from pizza by the slice in roadside eateries and hearty classics like mama used to make to incredible haute cuisine creations.

When the final digestifs have been downed and the aromatic coffee has provided that much needed after dinner perk up, it’s time to head off into the Formentera night. Home to bed or out for an après-dinner stroll? A quick nightcap or dancing all night long? The beauty of Formentera nightlife is it has all of this and more. If the allure of a midnight stroll is calling your name, the charming wooden walkways weaving their way between the sand dunes are softly lit and provide the perfect platform, while the cobblestone village squares also hold a sense of old-school romance. The villages of Formentera truly come alive at night. In Sant Ferran, stroll the night market – filled with art, jewellery and handcrafts – where there is plenty of opportunity for retail therapy, as the adjacent open-air bars and restaurants hum with the lively buzz of people. Nearby, Sant Francesc often has live bands performing in the square between restaurants and bars – all local festivals are celebrated here and it’s a hive of social activity. Flower Power. Swing festivals. Jazz festivals. Blues festivals. Balearic traditions. There’s always a reason to get involved.

Back towards the seaside, the most buzzing area of all is Es Pujols – the only part of the island to be home to nightclubs and a bustling seaside promenade. True – this is perhaps the most touristic area, however if you want to dance ‘til dawn, Tipic and Pineta are the places to be. International DJs do flow through Formentera, but are generally more underneath the radar. For example, legendary Ibiza party Cocoon have held a residency at Tipic for the past six seasons and have had guests including Sven Väth and Richie Hawtin, but the party itself still remains relatively underground. When you do finally head home, it’s easy to fall asleep as you listen to the sounds of silence. If you’re staying by the beach, leaving a window open will allow the sounds of the waves lapping the shore help you drift off to dreamland. If you’re in the campo, you’ll hear those treetops rustling and perhaps some singing cicadas on a hot summer night. The peace and quiet is a blissful respite from the ‘real world’ – no cars, no foot traffic, no footsteps from the apartment upstairs, no loud music thumping in the distance. All is calm. All seems right with the world.

Formentera: Nature

When day-trippers from Ibiza disembark from their boats, they are instantly struck by the difference in the colour of the sea, the clarity of the water and the clearness of the skies. It is inland however, where the true natural beauty of Formentera lies. Break day-tripping tradition and take a drive to the heart of the island to really embrace the island’s authenticity. Better yet, stay overnight, and spend more time exploring country laneways and forest walkways, whether in the glorious golden sunlight or under the magical moonlit skies, on foot, by bicycle or on a scooter. Fill your lungs with the unpolluted Formentera air, taking in the scent of pines and the sea as you start to truly connect with nature.

In the countryside, it is almost as if time stands still. Centuries old, dry stone walls with rickety, handmade wooden gates divide farmland and fields, peppered with rustic-looking bales of hay and populated by goats. Look up, and Ibiza is but a hazy view in the distance. Look down, and the weathered rocky ground has transformed with beautiful textures and patterns, covered in low growing, lilac-hued shrubbery. The landscape is dry, but beautiful nonetheless and after the heavy end-of-season rainfalls each year, it becomes lush and green once more. Unspoiled. Rugged. Raw. Wild. Windswept. While not quite wuthering, the cliff faces of Formentera are reminiscent of a Bronte sisters’ novel – had the Brontes been born in the Balearics, of course. Breezes pick up around sunset, a welcome respite from the relentless heat in high summer, gently rustling the wild grass that grows in soft, feathery plumes on top of the jagged, rocky surface. Succulents too, spout wildly along the coast, ranging from creeping evergreens to ancient agave, aloe and cactus.

One of the most famous sights on the Formentera landscape, spotted as you drive along the main road that takes you up to the hilltop of La Mola, are enormous fig trees. They thrive on the dry land, growing further outwards than they do upwards, and local farmers work tirelessly to keep the branches supported from the ground level. Of course, this means fresh figs are in abundance come high summer – the lush, sweet fruit represents the taste of Formentera to those in the know. It’s not just the flora of Formentera that is impressive; the fauna deserves a mention too. Under the fig trees when the sun reaches its peak, you’ll see sheep grazing and catching some shade, while later at sunset, you’ll hear the sound of birds tweeting in the tree tops. The Ibiza Wall Lizard is recognised as the symbol of Formentera, quite tame by nature, and found happily sunbathing on dry rocks or sand while surrounded by humans. Interestingly, these lizards boast the highest colour diversity of any reptile species on the planet, so don’t be surprised if no two creatures look alike.

Underwater too, is home to an entire world of marine life – popular with divers and snorkelers alike – and it is in Formentera’s waters where the UNESCO World Heritage Listed species of seagrass, Posidonia Oceanica, grows freely. The underwater meadows of this grass are up to eight kilometres long in the area and said to be up to 100,000 years old – the world’s oldest organism. It is this species that is responsible for oxygenating the ultra-clear water in Formentera and that helps preserve its beaches from erosion. Closer to the port, stunning salt flats (salinas) are home to flamingos, herons, egrets and more, making the island also popular with bird watchers. Vineyards populate expanses of farmland on the highest points of the island, Cap de Barbaria and La Mola, with a variety of grapes flourishing in the climate. You can almost feel the Formentera ecosystem breathing with you and there is currently much support for sustainable tourism on the island. Nature is in abundance here, and while inland Formentera may not be as famous as the white sandy beach of Illetes, where the A-list dine as their yachts are anchored offshore, it is perhaps more authentic, more beautiful and a true symbol of the enduring spirit of this island.

Formentera: Freedom

The lone wishing tree rising from the rocks at the very furthest tip of Playa Migjorn could be considered symbolic of Formentera’s sense of freedom. Because it is right here, under the bright Balearic sun, where people – grown-up people – feel free to believe in magic. Tying a little shell to a barren branch fills their hearts with hope, manifesting the feeling that anything is possible. If you can dream it, you can live it in Formentera. The sense of freedom on Ibiza’s sister island extends far beyond the wishing tree. It is felt from the very first minute you step ashore. It’s as if time stands still here, with no rules, no ‘have tos’ and no commitments. Going to Formentera is like pressing pause on daily life – be it for a day, a week, a month or more – the very antithesis of contemporary living.

Those visitors who says “I’ll check my emails” or “We’ll keep in touch” suddenly drop off the radar with no explanation after arriving in Formentera. Going off the grid has never been easier (or more appropriate), and more than one formerly stressed out holidaymaker has been heard to declare: “The phone reception over here is terrible and I can’t seem to get onto WiFi anywhere” with absolutely zero guilt once they’ve relaxed into authentic Formentera life. Developing an allergy to technology is quite normal here – it’s one of the last remaining places where you can still see tables of diners laughing and interacting rather than Instagramming their food and taking endless selfies to prove they’re having fun. There’s certainly no space for a laptop in your beach bag when it’s crammed full of icy cold beers and fresh Formentera figs, thrown carelessly over your shoulder as you zoom across the island on a scooter, with the salty sea air on your skin and the wind in your hair.

Formentera hasn’t always been known for embracing freedom. It suffered enormously at the hands of Franco’s fascist regime in the 1930s, becoming a location for a concentration camp holding political prisoners awaiting execution. Hippies, draft-dodgers, gays, musicians and artists began flocking to the island in search of freedom in the 60s, and while Franco’s Nationalist Forces tried for a short while to expel them, after the dictator’s death in 1976, Formentera once again asserted itself as the island of the people. Perhaps the island’s troubled past is why the idea of freedom is so important to those who inhabit the island today – be it by birth right or by choice. A celebration of triumph over tragedy. Like a phoenix rising from the ashes, Formentera has emerged as a destination where freedom is not only sought, it is found. In Formentera today, you can feel free to do whatever you want and be whoever you are. The bohemia associated with the island’s past lingers in the villages, on the beaches and in the countryside.

There is no dress code in Formentera; fine dining restaurants welcome diners in flip-flops and naked sunbathers are a regular sight on the spectacular beaches. Having a drink – be it coffee spiked with brandy, beer or a mojito – with breakfast is the norm. Making plans is something best left for another place, another time. On some days, bedtime might come as early as 8pm, on other nights you’ll stay up and watch the sunrise before retiring at 8am. Under the watchful eye of Bartolo, the owner of the beach shack on brightly painted blue stilts, the wishing tree stands proudly, tinkling with strings of shells representing the wishes of hundreds of people, from all over the world. Only in a place like Formentera can a once-barren tree like this can evolve into a thing of ethereal beauty – almost as if by magic. Flee the stress, escape the crowds, let freedom reign…

Formentera: Romance

Photography by Ana Lui

Indeed, the smallest of the Balearics has inspired love for decades – be it the love felt for a partner or friends and family, the love of nature or a true love for life. When you set foot onto this paradisiacal outpost, just three nautical miles from Ibiza, all you need is love… Being only accessible by boat makes the journey to Formentera romantic in itself. As you head out of Ibiza’s port in the early morning – a little bleary-eyed, clutching a café con leche in one hand and your partner’s hand in the other – the iconic silhouette of Dalt Vila slowly fades into the background, as does the hustle and bustle of the increasingly commercialised white isle. Formentera represents a new hope on the seemingly distant horizon, and the weight of the world slips off your shoulders as you gain speed across the Med.

Stepping off the boat and into the sleepy port of Formentera feels a little like Dorothy arriving in the land of Oz. The landscape surrounding La Savina is raw, rugged and untouched – as though the island were still undiscovered. In a way, it still is, despite its popularity with day-trippers from Ibiza and the Italian jetset in August. Because whether you’re a Fomentera first-timer or a long-time lover, romantic new discoveries are found around every corner, along every bumpy back road or behind every sand dune. As you hit the main stretch of road connecting the marina with the island’s main beaches and villages, gorgeously tanned couples whizz by on scooters, seemingly attached at the hip. The guys are shirtless, the girls in bikinis with beach umbrellas tucked under their arms – the picture-perfect image of holiday romance. You can drive to the edge of the earth in Formentera, to sit on jagged cliff edges or beneath solitary lighthouses and watch nothing but the birds, a few lizards and perhaps some boats go by.

Magazines often speak of the magical combination of sun-kissed skin, sandy feet and salty kisses and nowhere is this more evident than on the beaches of Formentera. Couples wade into the shallow clear water and kiss passionately for hours on end, or lie intertwined, deep in conversation, on oversized sarongs in the sand. It’s not overtly sexual, yet there is an air of sensuality and liberation in Formentera, where bathing suits are optional and there isn’t a whole lot to do apart from, well… The darkly romantic film Sex & Lucía paid testament to Formentera’s inherent sensual nature, with the sultry Paz Vega epitomising a free-spirited Mediterranean siren. There was sex in the sea; sex on the sand; sex under the stars – and while you aren’t likely to witness any of that in reality, the wildly romantic nature of the island and its inhabitants still reflect the values of the original 1967 summer of love. Fast forward 50 years and nothing has changed in Formentera – the former social phenomenon is simply a way of life.

Connecting with nature is all part of the romance of Formentera. Beaches and bays are connected by a series of charming roped wooden walkways – not to stop you getting sand in your shoes, but in a bid to preserve the elegant natural shape and form of the dunes. Tall, soft sea grass sways in the breeze, with each bend and turn showcasing yet another heart-wrenchingly beautiful sight. Water so clear, the sun’s rays glitter as they reflect off its surface and skies so blue they could be a work of art. Sunset in Formentera brings even more magic and romance. Whether you’re alone with your lover on the moonlike surface of the cliffs above Cala Saona, or you’re enraptured by the sounds of Andrea Bocelli and Sarah Brightman’s ‘Time to Say Goodbye’ floating over the airways at Piratabus on Playa Migjorn while sipping mojitos in jumbo plastic cups, it is almost impossible not to be moved to tears. After dark, the offshore breeze picks up, giving you all the more reason to throw your arms around your beloved and head off into the Formentera night. A romantic alfresco dinner, a ‘vino pages’ (local wine) in a starlit cobblestoned village square or an early night at home – this is true Formentera romance.

Formentera: Nostalgia

Photography by Ana Lui

It’s almost like stepping back in time, into a postcard from Spain in the 1970s, such is its unspoilt beauty, laidback ambience and refreshingly low-key lifestyle. Life is simple in Formentera. As crystal clear water laps the shoreline, glamorous European couples play bat-and-ball alongside families in the water, a nod back to the days before iPads were a regular sight on the beach. As for mobile phones? Who needs them? Half the beaches on this tiny island don’t even have reception, creating a magical, off-the-grid tranquillity reminiscent of days gone by.

Ahh, the beaches of Formentera. With turquoise water that rivals the Caribbean in clarity, glittering, ultra-fine white sand, umbrellas-in-the-sand and sarongs casually strewn across the beach, it’s a much more relaxed affair than the packed beaches of Ibiza, where you may find yourself competing for sunbeds in high season. It’s all about connecting with nature – getting sand in your hair, in your shoes, in your bag, even in your bocadillo (baguette-style sandwiches sold in supermarkets) – and loving it, the way you did as a child on family trips to the beach. This feeling of nostalgia is everywhere in Formentera. The smallest of the Balearic Islands has been well-preserved since its days as a hippy haven – back when it was the place to escape Franquismo, or the Vietnam war draft. Local characters continue to dress in bohemian styles, true relics of their era – never in a hipster, ironic way.

Formentera history tells of Pink Floyd and Bob Dylan writing music in lighthouses and windmills. The hostel and bar of Fonda Pepe in San Ferran proudly displays photos of the time Bob Marley performed an impromptu set here. The furnishings, the chequered tiled floors, and indeed, the bar staff remain the same, just shy of 40 years on. Music in Formentera clings on firmly to the past – to those times when songs had real meaning and the artists behind them were true poets, pioneers of their time. You won’t hear house music blaring from bars or restaurants here – the island’s soundtrack is pure rock and folk. Think The Doors, Jimi Hendrix, The Velvet Underground, Janis Joplin and the aforementioned Floyd, Dylan and Marley.

After dark, Formentera’s villages come alive, but dinner here is a no make-up, messy hair and permanent golden tan affair. The rich dine next to the poor, and the born and bred Formenterencs alongside the incognito jetset escaping the hedonism of Ibiza – just as the white isle used to be before the introduction of the VIP culture and the luxury developments of recent years. Speaking of luxury, forget five-star hotels in Formentera. All you need is a basic bed in a beachside serviced apartment alongside your loved ones with the sound of the sea sending you off to sleep. The coastline is peppered with small clusters of holiday apartments, with direct access to the beach and very few mod cons! In Formentera, all you need is love.