Authentic winter vibes

There are still a few insider favourites to be uncovered however – those places that truly capture the authentic spirit of Ibiza – and one of the winter’s most magical destinations is La Torre Ibiza, the beautiful boutique hostel, restaurant and sunset bar nestled on the rugged, unspoilt cliffside of Cap Negret on the island’s west coast. While its reputation as the place to be for an alternative sunset viewing experience in summer precedes it, La Torre Ibiza has in fact always been a year-round destination – something its legions of loyal fans keep close to their chest. In winter, all the action takes place within the rustic chic interior and on the beautiful protected terrace. The breathtaking Mediterranean views don’t change of course, however as anyone who has ever witnessed an Ibiza winter sunset will attest, the nightly spectacular put on by nature is amped up in the off-season, in a kaleidoscope of vibrant pinks, oranges, amber and gold, followed by deep purple as night falls. And La Torre Ibiza continues to offer front row seats to the magic each and every night of the year.

While sunset is the best-known attraction at La Torre Ibiza, the hotel and restaurant offer an array of other reasons to visit from 8am until 11pm daily – plus ultra-affordable plush beds and pillows to sleep on in those hours in between. Breakfast with a view is a wonderful reason to bound out of bed (the kitchen opens at 8am) before choosing between a healthy or hearty start to the day. Speaking of healthy, La Torre Ibiza regularly organises special wellness or fitness mornings in the winter months (advertised via their Facebook page), such as the Yoga Detox – which includes a yoga session followed by a healthy breakfast – or the Workout Brunch, which as the name suggests starts with a training session with one of the island’s premier personal trainers followed by a fresh and healthy brunch. The coastline surrounding La Torre Ibiza offers a variety of walking and hiking trails that take you through the beautiful woodlands and along the rocky shoreline. Fuel-up with breakfast and then hit the trails – or perhaps you prefer to take a hike in the morning, then settle in for a long lazy lunch afterwards. The choice is yours, and in winter, there’s no rush. Reservations are not necessary and you can simply arrive and eat when you’re ready. The ‘menu del dia’ is a long-standing Ibiza lunch tradition and La Torre Ibiza offers a daily three-course set menu for just 20€ per person on weekdays and 25€ on weekends.

It’s easy to see why many diners at La Torre Ibiza like to extend their lunch to take in those incredible early sunset views. With the sun setting at around 6pm at this time of year, the sky begins its spectacular transformation during the hours before and islanders start popping into the venue to take a seat and enjoy the show, creating a lively buzz and fun ambience. La Torre Ibiza is one of the only sunset bars and restaurants in Ibiza remaining open all year round, and from Thursday to Sunday the sunset is soundtracked by the island’s best chill out DJs (including the renowned DJ Buda on Fridays) – harking back to the original ethos of the Ibiza sunset experience. Good vibes, sensational views and amazing Balearic beats. After dark, the restaurant becomes a candlelit, romantic paradise – the perfect place to extend your sunset experience into a beautifully decadent dinner. The La Torre Ibiza kitchen remains open until 11pm, seven nights a week, offering something to suit all appetites from the delicious à la carte menu, which is a fusion of seasonal Mediterranean and Moroccan influences lovingly created by acclaimed Argentinian chef, Andres Lalla. If you’re a local and the thought of driving home after dinner doesn’t appeal to you (when that lovely bottle of vino tinto does appeal!) be sure to enquire about availability at Hostal La Torre before you arrive. Winter is the ideal time to treat yourself to a sleep-in and nice breakfast the following morning, and waking up to those views is the perfect way to start the day.

Hostal La Torre offers out-of-season holidaymakers a variety of reasons to book a winter stay. Rooms – which range from basic doubles through to deluxe and junior suites with balconies and million dollar views – are accessibly priced, and totally equipped for the chillier months with cosy heating. Regular promotions include added incentives such as complimentary Vespa hire with any two-night stay in a double room or junior suite, or a full-day of car hire. Depending on the weather, you can whizz around the island immersed in nature and with the wind in your hair, or stay tucked up as you cruise the streets. The choice is yours, and with so many fun events and activities taking place across the island, there’s no better time to visit than right now. For those Ibiza lovers in love, Valentine’s Day is already looming in the not so distant future, and a long weekend or extended stay at La Torre Ibiza makes the perfect gift. A special set Valentine’s dinner is on offer for 35€ per person, and includes an aperitif of red shrimp veloute and a cream of leek soup, followed by starters including stracciatella mousse, grilled scallop loin with lemongrass foam or crispy rolls of duck confit with pineapple. Main courses are a choice of a Japanese inspired fillet Corvina, braised Ibicenco lamb ribs or the stir-fried vegetarian Seitan with crispy vegetables. And just when you thought V.Day was sweet enough, be sure to save room for for dessert! A special accommodation deal including the menu plus breakfast the morning after will also be on offer – whether you’re on-island and looking to spoil your loved one or are visiting for the occasion and need a place to call home away from home. Keep your eyes peeled on the La Torre Ibiza website for more details. And last of all – if you’re planning a winter celebration (be it a birthday, large group dinner or special occasion), be sure to contact the La Torre Ibiza team. With the time, space and flexibility that the winter season allows, creating a personalised experience is entirely possible. All the more reason to visit La Torre Ibiza…

So this is winter…

The longer you live in Ibiza, the more you fall in love with the winter season. Fact. For most islanders, winter begins on November 2 – the day we shake off our Halloween hangovers and embrace the start of the off-season – and continues right through until Easter. The rest of the world insists it starts on December 21 if you’re north of the equator, but really, we know better. Residents often spend their summers dreaming of the winter, much to the confusion of friends and family who prefer to visit in high season, when all the restaurants and clubs are open, the sea water is warm and flights are more regular. “Isn’t it a ghost town?” they ask. “What would you even do in the winter?” is another common question. “Don’t you get bored?” Ask anyone who’s spent a winter in Ibiza about the off-season and you can brace yourself for an epic monologue as they wax lyrical about the island’s out of season delights for the next 30 minutes or so. You see, we (and when I say we, I mean me and everyone else who chooses to spend the ‘other’ half of the year on the white isle) know something other people don’t. It’s something I’m not even sure you can understand until you’ve tried it. Actually, probably not even until you’ve lived it. But I’m going to try and explain it to you anyway. Brace yourself – and don’t say I didn’t warn you.

Wait, wait, wait a minute. Hold up. Let me think this through. Maybe I shouldn’t be telling anyone anything. Maybe this knowledge should remain our (and when I say our, I mean me and… well, you know who I mean!) little secret. After all, if everyone knew about how magical Ibiza is in winter, the island could become overpopulated, turn into a year-round tourist destination and we’d lose our special winter times. That contrast of high and low season could be gone for good. But the fact is, the cat’s out of the bag when it comes to spending winters in Ibiza. You don’t need me to tell you all about it – it’s in the news, in magazines, in the Sunday papers, on the television. It’s the most wonderful time of the year… you just have to know where to look. Over the past few years, the island’s off-season population has rapidly increased as more and more people have decided to ditch the super cold climes of northern Europe for our sunny shores (once you’ve visited once in winter, it becomes a no brainer!). In response to this, more and more restaurants, shops and businesses remain open to cater to all these people, meaning there’s more to experience than ever before. Ten years ago, winter may have meant surviving on skeleton staff or being limited to just a couple of places to eat out, shop or dance – it was very much like living in a very small town – but these days, Ibiza is deservedly considered a worthy winter holiday destination.

I once read the Ibiza winter described as the reward residents got for surviving the summer and I have to agree. When you can finally let the stress and frenetic energy of summer pass and sit back and appreciate the pure beauty of where you live, it’s impossible not to feel at peace. When you finally have the luxury of time to spend with friends and realise how fortunate we are to live in a paradise that attracts so many unique personalities connected by a shared love of this little Mediterranean island, it’s so easy to be happy. Winter is not about what you can do or where you can go or who you can see. Winter in Ibiza is a feeling. For me, winter in Ibiza is like somewhere over the rainbow. So now, this is winter. It’s the contrast of blue skies and blazing sunshine by day and cosy fires and plush blankets by night, with incredible sunsets in between. When I got up this morning, there was frost covering my windows. When I got to my car at 9am, all rugged up with a scarf, beanie and ugg boots, the entire vehicle was covered in icy dew and the windows were fogged up. By the time I came out of my yoga class just one and a half hours later (because yes! I finally have time to practice again), the sun was beaming down on the island like a hot summer’s day and people were walking around in t-shirts. I even had to turn on the air conditioning as I drove to my next appointment. True story.

Now I’m back home and the sun has just set over the hills in the distance, the winter chill is already creeping in through the cracks under the doors and windows. If you live in what’s considered a ‘charming’ old building like I do, you’ve really got to be prepared for the winter. The extremely high humidity levels on the island can make your interiors Baltic if you accidentally forget to close an upstairs window (which I often do) or don’t put the draft excluders in place before dark (guilty, yet again). The single glazed windows start to frost up again come midnight, meaning you’ve got to be vigilant about closing your wooden shutters before you go to bed each night unless you want to wake up in an ice box. But for me, that’s all part of the magic. Don’t get me wrong – this is not the only way to live in Ibiza in the winter! Certainly, many people choose to live in centrally heated sleek apartments or villas where all the doors and windows are perfectly sealed, tiled floors are heated from below and towel racks make getting out of the shower a toasty warm delight. I just have a soft spot for thick socks, flannel pyjamas, oversized knitted sweaters, cosy duvets, red wine and a couple of cats to snuggle up with, not to mention the bohemian beauty of 12-foot high ceilings in a centuries-old apartment with striking art deco tiled floors I just can’t bear to hide beneath rugs for the sake of warming my feet. Call me crazy, or call me a romantic… but I wouldn’t want to spend my winters any other way.

Warming up the winter

Set in the year-round village of Santa Gertrudis, the stylish modern eatery is known for its nutritious and creative menu, fresh juices and smoothies (it’s also the home of the renowned iPurify juice cleanse program) and spacious set-up, which now includes the addition of a roaring fireplace. This new cosy atmosphere, combined with some winter warming menu additions, makes Wild Beets the kind of place you can pop in for breakfast… and then stay for lunch and afternoon tea!

From its inception in 2014, Wild Beets always intended to cater to island residents and holidaymakers 12 months a year – not only serving up healthy and nutritious dining options but also providing valuable year-round jobs to locals. Rather than shutting up shop when high tourist season is over, the restaurant simply switches into a more appropriate winter mode. Think less raw dishes (because let’s face it, when it’s chilly outside, you naturally want a steaming bowl of goodness under your nose!) and more hearty, healthy bowls and delicious warm drinks. Breakfast (served from 9am until 12pm) has been given a winter upgrade, with hot oatmeal, warm grain bowls and quinoa blends now appearing as specials alongside the classics. Lunch service begins at 12.30pm with new additions for winter 2017 including the Buddha Bowl, Dragon Bowl, Protein Bowl and Macro Bowl – vibrant, colourful and above all, nutrient-dense dishes designed to sate all appetites and dietary requirements. Whether you’re looking for an energy boost, a post-workout protein replenishment or a completely macrobiotic meal, these new warm bowls showcase a variety of different grains, quinoa and rice mixtures ideal for winter climes.

Hot drinks become the star of the show in winter with Matcha being one particular specialty of Wild Beets. Owner Cliff Grubin has scoured the globe for the very finest Matcha, and personally brings in the high quality, health-packed tea blend from small specialist producers in Japan. “It’s an amazing product,” he says emphatically. “No other Matcha anywhere else comes close to this. It’s out of this world.” Above and beyond the silky taste and texture – choose between tea or a latte, created with Wild Beets’ homemade almond or coconut milks – the health benefits are extraordinary, chock full of amino acids and boasting powerful cancer fighting properties. Another buzz-drink on the Wild Beets winter menu is Golden Milk Tea, another wonderfully warming drink ideal for winter, made with the natural anti-inflammatory and health boosting turmeric. Just because it’s cold outside however, doesn’t mean the Wild Beets juice bar slows down – in fact, Cliff says these past few weeks have seen the iPurify juice detoxes increasing in popularity – perfect for treating post NYE indulgence or those New Year’s resolutions kicking in! Juices can be snapped up as single doses, daily packages or more intensive weeklong programs – enquire within to find out more.

Open daily from 9am until 6pm (kitchen closes at 5pm), Wild Beets welcomes one and all to pull up a pew by the fire and make the space their own. With the international school nearby and a local school practically next door, it’s the perfect place for a post-school run catch-up, or to grab a healthy snack or meal between Pilates and yoga classes (with plenty of studios and teachers in the area). Large tables make it great for long lunches while quiet corners are perfect for more intimate dates and on a sunny day, you can even enjoy the open-air terrace – there really is something for everyone at Wild Beets. Also famed with the island’s digital nomads for its high-speed WiFi connection and ample table sizes, Wild Beets has also become a hotspot for meetings and popular mobile office that’s always nice and cosy, with a warm ambience making it easy to be productive… especially when you don’t have to get up and boil the kettle yourself every time you crave another warm drink! Photography by Maria Simon

Can someone turn up the heat please?

Can someone turn up the heat in Ibiza please? I’ve been writing numerous blogs, feature articles and social media posts of late singing the island’s praises for its sun-drenched, high temp winter and, errr, this week it feels like Ibiza just didn’t get the memo. The weather is proving me wrong. All of a sudden, out of nowhere, it’s really, really cold. And grey. And wet. And windy. Apologies for being smug in my previous blogs. I feel like I may have brought this cold snap on myself.

In all seriousness, I know the sudden drop from 20 degrees Celcius to 10 is nothing in comparison to the bitter early winters of London, New York or Berlin, but bear with me. For islanders like me who have been wearing summer clothes and flip-flops up until just seven days ago, this is a bit of a culture shock. There was no transition with tights, scarves, long sleeved tops and layers easing you into the winter wardrobe – it was more like BAM! Coat! Woolly socks! Chunky scarf! Ugg boots! Didn’t I tell you just recently we only have two seasons here? From summer to winter, overnight. The beauty of these cold bursts in Ibiza is that they don’t tend to last too long. A week of rain here, a few days of icy winds there, some cool foggy mornings, or an afternoon of overcast skies and then it’s back to the blissful winter sunshine. And rainbows! Let’s not forget the rainbows – did anyone else see the flurry of Facebook posts when we had a double rainbow last week? It’s like we have nothing to talk about except the weather here in the off-season (ahem). But I digress… back to the weather! The funny thing about these mini pockets of bad weather is it throws our lives and schedules into complete havoc, despite years of experience and many winters lived on the island. Every year it’s the same thing. Smugness followed by confusion. And for those newbies, settling in for their first Ibiza winter it’s a total shock – I’ve been asked ‘Is this normal?’ more than once this week by our newest White Ibiza recruits. I assure them the good days are just around the corner…

What happens is we’re (and when I say we, I mostly mean me) reminded of that leak in the ceiling we never got around to fixing last year (because the rainy season was so short, it just dried up and we forgot), and once again we’re plugging it up with towels and hoping for the best. We hit the hardware stores in desperate need of dehumidifiers to cure the damp in our old Dalt Vila apartments or ancient countryside fincas only to discover they are dramatically overpriced on the island because there’s such a big market for them – thank goodness for the competitive prices of Amazon and its free delivery options! And after we finally get ourselves a dehumidifier, we remember that the electricity in our aforementioned abodes can’t cope with having three heaters, a dehumidifier, the laptop TV and the washing machine all on at the same time. Unless of course you’re lucky enough to live in a beautiful new villa or apartment with luxe underfloor heating with all the mod cons and a big fireplace… and then you discover that all of a sudden your less fortunate friends want to spend a whole lot of time hanging out with you. At your place. Obvs. We find there’s no time to drop our winter coats (that have been sitting in a pile of clothes that need alterations all summer but we were too busy) off at the tailor to have those missing buttons sewn on because it’s simply turned too cold overnight to go without them. We realise there’s no easy way to navigate muddy caminos between our cars to houses. We buy umbrellas from the bargain stores in emergencies and then soggily sigh as they’re whipped inside out by the wind in an instant. We toss them unceremoniously in the trash, as we did with their brothers and sisters last winter and think, must remember to buy a decent brolley soon…

But there are other things we’re once again reminded of that make all these little inconveniences so worthwhile. We watch the island turn back into a lush, green paradise, after finally receiving the rainfall it’s been craving. We see those dark, moody skies create dramatic deep purple sunsets over the horizon. We seek shelter inside some amazing Ibiza locations, where the big old wood fires are crackling and the most simple grilled Mediterranean meats and red wine give us the ultimate in comfort eating experiences. We realise it’s actually really pleasant to step inside a hot yoga studio in comparison to being outdoors. We embrace the art of cocooning complete with Netflix (finally!) and our winter duvets. We spend hours on Pinterest, looking for soup recipes – possibly longer than we spend cooking and eating them. We embrace these moments and feelings because we know that in a few days the sun will be back and we’ll be out and about again enjoying the island’s winter vibes. We whinge and we moan (and once again, when I say we, I mostly mean me) but we secretly love it. I for one wouldn’t want to spend my winters anywhere else.

Where winter fire burns bright

Ibiza in summer is a sight to behold. Famous for glamorous beaches, luxury lounging around, yachting across the glittering Med, long lunches and even longer dinners… anyone who’s holidayed here in summer knows all this and more. But those on the inside know Ibiza in winter is pure, unadulterated magic. While the rest of Europe shivers under a blanket of snow topped with a sheet of icy sleet, Ibiza is basking under bright blue skies and crisp clean air. Things may be quieter (no traffic! easy restaurant reservations!) but there is one place where the light has always shone right through the winter: luxury Ibiza Agroturismo Cas Gasi. With year-round direct flights from all over the mainland and Europe including Paris, London, Milan, Geneva, Amsterdam and Eindhoven, it’s now easier than ever to treat yourself to a mid-winter holiday at the island’s premiere boutique hotel.

Surrounded by lush gardens and forests, Cas Gasi has been a beacon of elegant comfort since its inception. Summer sees guests lounging poolside after yoga, sipping freshly pressed juices, taking jaunts over to Formentera and organising their moves from the home base of Cas Gasi, strategically located in the centre of the island. In winter the hotel really takes on a homely feel – which makes sense, as it was once the owners’ beloved family home! The huge fireplace warms the living room’s plush sofas and invites guests to enjoy the hotel’s library – perfect for cosying up with any number of the cool coffee table books or literary classics with a hot drink, cocktail or bottle of wine. Quiet and soothing, Cas Gasi in winter is entirely heart warming, as some guests come and stay a week or more, and others escape for a long weekend. It’s the perfect time of year to connect with oneself or loved ones, to create wonderful memories with each other in this charming yet sophisticated location.

The delicate scent of artisan baking tends to waft out of the home kitchen and fill the main house with mouthwatering hints of shortbreads and cakes. The exclusive in-house restaurant maintains its regular menu throughout the winter with the addition of seasonal delicacies such as locally foraged mushrooms and winter root vegetables plucked directly from the Cas Gasi organic vegetable garden, not to mention game season when local pheasant features as speciality of the house. While eating is obviously a major pastime for most travellers, it’s lucky that the Cas Gasi gym and spa remain fully operational. There is nothing like a long soak in the Jacuzzi followed by a sauna session and a pre-booked spa treatment after a day of island exploring… or even just a day of nothing much at all!

Enjoying Ibiza in winter is a delight. Walks through the pristine forest, bike rides to the local villages, strolls along deserted beaches and coves under a winter sun fill the heart with romance and calm. And coming home to Cas Gasi at the end of the day is like returning to a picturesque sanctuary. Under-floor heating creates a cosy companion to the open fire. The cinema room and vast selection of classic films, the signature Cas Gasi soundtrack of smooth jazz, breakfasts brought to your room, afternoon wine tastings, a private dinner or a feast with friends – spend your days and evenings exactly as you wish. December sees the island come alive with the arrival of a loyal international crowd to share in its annual Christmas and New Year celebrations. As they say, it’s the most wonderful time of the year! Lights are strung, the markets and shops are packed with people, parties are hosted and good cheer fills the towns and villages. The perfect antidote to the greyness of a cruel winter elsewhere, an off-season stay at Cas Gasi is a simply magical experience – the perfect gift to yourself or to your loved ones this Christmas!

A tale of two seasons

Ibiza is known to many as an island of two seasons. Two very, very different seasons. We have our world famous summer (which attracted upwards of seven million tourists this year – eek!), chock-full of glorious sun-drenched beach days, alfresco dining by the beach or in the country and endless nights of partying. And then there’s the not-quite-as-famous-but-slowly-gaining-notoriety ‘other’ season. Winter. Also chock-full of glorious sun-drenched beach days, alfresco dining by the beach or in the country and endless nights of partying, if you know where to look! Ed’s note: Yes, we’re very aware that spring and autumn exist in between these two seasons, however it’s just a given in Ibiza that the year is split into two, colloquially referred to as summer or winter. It is what it is. Roll with it.

As I write this blog, we’re officially entering the winter period here on the white isle. As last of the Halloween face paint is washed down the drain, we bid farewell to the summer season, say adios to traffic, to tourists, to some of the superclubs (including Space, forever – we’ll miss you!), to many popular restaurants, to some of our friends and to super busy workloads and stress. You can almost feel the island breathe a collective sigh of relief at this transitional shift – because saying goodbye doesn’t have to be sad. Right now, it simply signifies the start of a new (slightly cooler) chapter. For those islanders who’ve lived here all year round for many years, the thrill of winter arriving is like nothing else.

But for those who are embarking on their very first island winter, or for holidaymakers who’ve heard all about this magical ‘other’ season and want to make their inaugural winter expedition this year, finding your feet or knowing where to start can seem daunting. But don’t let that put you off! White Ibiza is here to help, and this week we’ll be launching an all-new winter section, showcasing the very best the white isle has to offer out of season. Sign up here to receive our weekly winter newsletter, or watch our social media feeds for more – starting from tomorrow!

From restaurants – high end, healthy, beachside and beyond – and hotels to clubs, parties, events, shopping and much, much more, we’ve made it easy for you to map out a schedule for a holiday, or plan new things to do during your valuable time off. Let me assure you – give winter in Ibiza a try and you’ll land on your feet. I remember very clearly being a very nervous little Miss W over ten years ago, making the decision to stay on my beloved island for the winter season, despite the fact many of my friends had already left and I had no job or prospects. I was just so in love with the island I couldn’t bare the thought of leaving her. Next thing you know, I had an amazing group of new friends, was constantly out and about finding amazing places I’d never heard of before (from restaurants and flea markets to waterfalls, caves and much more), had so much work I didn’t get to take any time off and voila! I never, ever left and now winter is my favourite time of the year.

Here are a few of my favourite things: the absolutely incredible winter sunsets – it’s a whole new colourful ballgame compared to the summer. Dining out on super cheap, hearty and delicious menu del dias in authentic Spanish restaurants, often outside in the sunshine – three courses and a drink for less than 15€. Embarking on new ventures – be it a health kick, Spanish lessons, redecorating the home or finally getting around to writing that book. Rifling through the weekly markets where one person’s trash is definitely another’s treasure. Traipsing across the island in the glorious sunshine, finding new pathways to new viewpoints you’ve never seen before (and where people braver than me keep swimming until January). Catching up with friends new and old at parties that still capture that bohemian spirit of Ibiza. And then there’s Christmas and New Year – the most wonderful time of the year! But more on that, later…

I’ll admit, it does get chilly at night, but it’s nothing like London or Paris or Berlin. There are outdoor heaters in bars and cosy fireplaces indoors – cocooning is all part of the winter experience. When you’re outside, you’ll need a coat and a scarf, but you most likely won’t zip up the coat or wear the scarf wrapped around your neck three times. Gloves and beanies are for sale in the high street stores here of course, but those are merely more for show, for the fashion conscious among us – you’ll spot them sweating beneath their woolly layers as they try to remain stylish and seasonal in the blazing sunlight. Ahhh, winter in Ibiza. I’m so happy you’ve arrived – I wouldn’t want to be anywhere else in the world right now!

Miss W’s blog: Hello winter! Your island survival guide

Stop the press! Ibiza’s ‘other’ season has officially kicked off. Winter is here (yes, we know that technically it’s still autumn, but just go with us on this one) and I – like most Ibiza residents – am just so happy it’s hard to contain. (more…)