Living la vida local

The summer season as we know it has come to an end much sooner than usual in 2020, however for those who still have an October trip on the cards, all is not lost! The island has simply segued into winter mode a little earlier than expected, and if you’ve ever heard an Ibiza resident wax lyrical about the off-season, then you’ll know you’re in for an extra special treat. Our on-island team – all year-round locals themselves – have rounded up a list of the best places to dine in Ibiza this October. Fantastic food, both rustic and luxe settings, that same warm Ibiza service and no crowds – this month, it’s all about living (and dining) la vida local!

Breakfast: The best way to start to the day

In summer, islanders are usually up and off to work – perhaps with a quick homemade coffee and a tostada before hitting the road. In ‘winter’ however (yes, we know it’s autumn, but here in Ibiza, locals tend to simply split the year into two seasons, summer and winter), there’s plenty more time to treat yourself to the types of brekkie or brunch spreads you often see tourists sharing on Instagram – and thankfully, there are still quite a few places open that tick all the right boxes in terms of freshness, variety, quality and indeed, quantity! None of our team members can walk past a Passion Café – Marina Ibiza, Vara de Rey [pictured], San José and Santa Eulalia are all still open – in the morning without being tempted in by the scent of the island’s finest coffee, then staying for the mega breakfasts on offer. All types of pancakes, the island’s biggest avo toast menu, eggs aplenty, creative juices and smoothies, healthy bowls, corn fritters – you name it or you crave it, you’ll find it at Passion.

Meanwhile, over on the west coast of the island, there’s a new place in town that’s piqued our interest when it comes to brunch – Hawker Beach Club Ibiza looks over the beach of Cala de Bou and offers a creative breakfast and brunch fusion that crosses continents and cultures – from yoga brekkies and the classic full English, to New York style salmon bagels and then over to Latin America for arepas or Thailand for Yam Kai Do with a fried egg and back to the Med for a Spanish tortilla with jamon Iberico. There are only a few weeks left to try it, so be sure to book a table before October is out. In the village of Santa Gertrudis, Numero 74 L’Atelier is another breakfast favourite – fresh baked croissants and pastries, healthy bowls with tapioca or seasonal fruit, banana cake, Ibiza almond cake (we love cake for breakfast!), all available to eat in the sunny, spacious garden or take-away to sit on the beach. Just around the corner, at Wild Beets (another island institution when it comes to health and wellness), you can tuck into healthy and homemade, plant-based dishes such as blueberry porridge, almond and coconut raw porridge, chia breakfast bowls, eggless scrambles and so much more.

Beach lunches: Because the sun’s still shining!

Ibiza ‘winters’ are renowned for being filled with sunshine – apparently the sun shines on Ibiza for 300 days a year and aside from the odd monthly downpour, we often don’t see cloudy skies until at least February. All the more reason to live the beach life, and there are still plenty of amazing places to indulge in a long, luxurious seaside lunch – if you know where to look! You’ll need to be quick if you want to catch lunch at the iconic Amante Ibiza, which remains open until the end of this month, much to the delight of locals who can’t find the time to nab a table in the summer. Back towards Ibiza town, just a few minutes’ drive down the bumpy camino to the secluded cove od S’Estanyol, Cala Bonita also remains open (locals are hoping it will sustain its usual year-round hours), serving up some of the finest fresh Mediterranean fare right on the beach.

Over on the west coast, the stunning Cala Gracioneta Chiringuito [main photo] continues to impress locals and visitors alike daily with its Valencian style rice dishes and amazing grilled meats and fish – not to mention the beautiful views and relaxed ambience of the protected cove it presides over – reservations still highly recommended. And finally, on the south east coast of Ibiza, looking out over the sands of Es Cavallet and across to Dalt Vila, the family-run institution that is La Escollera [pictured] has always been a resident’s winter beach restaurant of choice – open 365 days a year and offering a combination of dishes based on decades-old family recipes and new contemporary creations (with a great selection for vegans). If you’re thinking to the future and wondering about Christmas in Ibiza, this is the place to be!

Campo classics: The countryside shines in autumn

When the seasons change (in this case we’ll concede to call it autumn), there’s nowhere more beautiful to be than the gorgeous Ibiza countryside. The light is just a little more golden, the air just a little more crisp (note, not cold!) and a breeze rustles the treetops with an air of romance that’s unlike the heavy, humid summer days and nights. It’s fair to say that the north of the island shines at this time of year and there’s an array of restaurants in the heart of the campo that remain open so you can dine beneath the trees, by fields of flowers (or sheep) or even right next to the organic garden where your food has been grown. La Paloma has long been a local’s favourite, from the days when it was a secret, until now, when it’s almost impossible to score a walk-in during summer. In the off season however, the pace is a lot slower – lazy lunches in the sunny garden from Wednesday to Sunday, or get cosy in the interior by night from Thursday to Saturday.

Keep driving north and take a right turn to follow the winding roads to luxury Agroturismo Atzaró, where the garden restaurant La Veranda offers the opportunity to sit beneath the shade of a vine-covered trellis, surrounded by beautiful lush lawns, orange groves and ancient olive trees. Farm-to-fork is the concept here, and you won’t find any fresher – the produce comes straight from the expansive Atzaró Vegetable Garden, right onsite. Back on the road, and just before you reach the village of San Juan, Shamarkanda offers a rustic hideaway, with an amazing fusion restaurant saluting the best of Asia and the Mediterranean alike, with live music on Sundays. And of course, one can’t visit San Juan without paying a visit to the iconic secret garden, The Giri Café [pictured] – whether by day or by night, the magic of this restaurant has been winning the hearts of island foodies for a decade now. Be sure to pay a visit before the season is up!

Date night: Where to snuggle up for winter romance

The arrival of winter in Ibiza normally gives couples an excuse to bunker down and Netflix and chill, but after experiencing a three-month lockdown right before summer, it’s easy to see why islanders in love (or those on the dating scene!) are keen to still spend their nights exploring the island. We’re not ready to stay home or inside just yet! Dining alfresco is still a possibility – though wrapping up warm is recommended, as restaurants can sadly no longer give clients blankets to keep warm due to the C-word – and with some of the most beautiful, and Instagrammable locations in the world on our doorstep, it’s not hard to find a place with cosy corners, great food and an intimate, romantic atmosphere to spend your date night.

La Mesa Escondida, housed within boutique hotel Petunia Ibiza, wins hands-down when it comes to views – the restaurant has a front row view of the mythical rock of Es Vedra, with fine Italian and Mediterranean food that equals its epic location. There are still a few weeks left to enjoy La Mesa, so be sure to check it out before it closes for the season. La Torre Ibiza, on the west coast of Ibiza, offers the double dreaminess of an Ibiza sunset – soundtracked by the best Balearic DJs no less – combined with fantastic food, and is the perfect place to while away an October evening. Back inland, on the famous San Juan restaurant road, the softly-lit space of Nagai [pictured] offers plenty of cosy corners perfect for lovers – especially for lovers of sushi and fine Japanese fusion cuisine. A newcomer on the Ibiza culinary scene is the in-house restaurant at Cas Gasi near Santa Gertrudis – now open to the public and helmed by one of Ibiza’s very finest chefs, David Reartes. Open all year round, the restaurant introduces a new level of gastronomy to Ibiza, one that no foodie should miss.

Group gatherings: Because we can’t do it in our homes!

At the moment, the current health and safety restrictions mean Ibiza homes can only host up to five people in total, which can put a dampener on group gatherings like birthdays or special occasions. And while restaurants also have limits on the amount of guests per table, there’s nothing to stop your friends being clever and booking multiple tables in one venue, right? (Let’s just keep that our little secret for now though). Some of our favourite places in Ibiza have menus that are ideal for sharing – and whether you’re a group or just a small table, it’s still nice to know that the age-old tradition of breaking bread with friends can still be enjoyed, even if it is on a slightly smaller scale.

For the ultimate in barbecues, we can’t go past the magical alfresco setting of Casa Maca [pictured], on the outskirts of Ibiza town and overlooking Dalt Vila – ideal for a sunny weekend lunch. If you’re looking for something more traditional, Tapas Ibiza – as the name suggests – in San Antonio serves up the finest selection of both typically Spanish and twists on tapas, and has long been loved by locals all over the island. In Santa Gertrudis, Bottega Il Buco remains the place to be seen (and to spot visiting A-listers and models – yes, even in October, you never know who you’ll be sitting next to!), snacking on focaccia by the slice by day or by night and sipping fine organic wines. Just a little further up north, Bambuddha never fails to satisfy, with its temple-like setting and amazing MediterrAsian menu, not to mention ‘all you can eat’ evenings and a big screen for the football. Back in Ibiza town, there’s no better place to share a meal with friends than Locals Only – how could we not congregate there, with a name like that? Of course, it’s not exclusive to islanders – rather, the name implies that citizens of the world should all feel welcome to dine here, and with amazing lunch specials, the freshest produce, a creative Italian-influenced menu, and a buzzing atmosphere at night thanks to its Plaza del Parque location, there’s all the more reason to go there, my dears…

Party time: Civilised and socially distant, of course

We’re all very much aware that 2020 is the year that Ibiza lost its famous nightlife scene, however that doesn’t mean islanders weren’t allowed to have fun! It just had to be pre-arranged, pre-booked and partaken in a slightly more civilised and socially distant manner – with a much earlier bedtime than many of us are used to. Well, they say change is a good thing and the only thing we can do with these government mandated changes is try to look on the bright side, and from our perspective, the bright side is that some of our favourite, more intimate places, remain open and there’s more space and time for us to enjoy them in the winter!

Pikes has always been an island institution when it comes to hedonism, and they’ve managed to keep the hotel’s authentic spirit alive this year no matter what restriction has been thrown at them. There’s just one week left to experience the magic – be it indulgent gourmet pizzas and burgers, washed down with champagne and cocktails as you chair dance on the sunset terrace or by the pool, a decadent evening meal in the hot pink Pamelas restaurant, watching the inimitable blondewearingblack sing live on Friday night, tucking into the final Sunday Roast soundtracked by The Brothers Grim and special guests next weekend – make the most of it before winter hibernation sets in! Of course, there’s always good vibes to be had at Bambuddha’s in-house bar, Tantra Cocktail Palace – where you can sip on bespoke cocktails or fine wines before or after your MediterrAsian feast, but for an all-year-round haunt with a very Ibiza twist, we can’t go past our favourite cocktail bar, Paradise Lost [pictured], in the back streets of the gypsy quarter in Ibiza town. Now serving up tasty quesadillas, so you don’t need to quaff your cocktails before rushing off for dinner, the little bar with a big heart is one of the last bastions of hedonism in Ibiza town – again, socially distanced, closing up a little earlier than usual (but opening earlier too!) and with lots of hand sanitiser of course!

A feast for the senses

Ibiza is an island that thrives on authenticity. Despite being a pioneer of the avant-garde, it remains true to its roots, carefully evolving rather than deviating too far away from the heritage that makes it unique. The island does, of course, get assistance from one-of-a-kind venues which dedicate themselves to preserving and maintaining the island’s true essence. The luxurious, rustic and authentic Agroturismo Atzaró is one such place and summer 2018 sees the iconic venue promising to weave together a magical gastronomic island experience. Nestled deep in the heartland of the Ibiza campo, among pastoral hills that hum to the sound of fertility and 10 hectares of zesty, fragrant orange groves, Agroturismo Atzaró is a true island gem. Offering that hard to come by combination of purity alongside absolute luxury, the hotel has long been admired and adored by locals and visitors alike. After a recent re-launch – in which a series of renovations were made to take advantage of its stunning rural location and typical Ibicenco architecture – it’s even more exclusive than ever. This season and beyond, Atzaró will be indulging hotel guests and visitors more than ever before.

Take La Veranda, for example. Agroturismo Atzaró’s beautiful onsite restaurant is already known island-wide for delicious organic dishes and a relaxed, bucolic setting, but this year it’s been elevated even further into the upper echelons of dining. On a hot summer’s day, take a stroll around the spectacular grounds, feel the warm breeze on your face as the aroma of orange blossoms floats past, and and then head to La Veranda for a lunch spent delving into plate after plate of first class gastronomy. It’s a luxurious feast for all the senses. Naturally, the quality of produce and culinary flair at La Veranda is unparalleled. Stop by for breakfast, lunch and dinner, or try the beautifully fresh Healthy Veranda Menu (available from 1pm to 4pm every day), which includes three starters, a main and a dessert for the extremely reasonable price of 30€ per person. It’s all to be savoured in La Veranda’s stunning setting, an alfresco terrace ensconced by rustic walls, archways entwined with gorgeous vines, and the intoxicating scent of local, indigenous herbs from the organic garden.

The menu itself also takes inspiration from these same traditional Ibicenco flavours, spruced up on the plate with a modern, Mediterranean twist. To start, try dishes like Iberico ham focaccia, cod croquettes with ajoarriero and pil pil, and a quirky twist on the classic patatas bravas. From the garden, tuck into grilled vegetables with celery puree, aubergine and romesco sauce, Burratina with pesto, tomato salad and homemade jam, and an Ibicenco favourite – tomato gazpacho with pickled mussels. For something more filling, try the fideuà with prawns and mushroom alioli, or risotto with vegetables from the garden and tous des tylers cheese. The myriad of delectable options doesn’t end there. From the sea, sample inventive dishes like squid served with ham, apple and osmotised celery, tuna tartar with artichoke, Nipon style, or grilled turbot with potatoes and mojo picón sauce. From the farm, try the hearty shoulder of lamb cooked at low temperature with truffled parmentier, or the divine free-range chicken terrine with plumb crumble, dried apricot and pine nuts praline. In terms of outstanding flavour, there’s simply too much to choose from.

High summer 2018 sees the iconic venue launch its Summer Garden Restaurant, in addition to La Veranda – a concept that sees Atzaró extend its culinary offerings into the stunning paved courtyard during the enchanting Ibiza night for a very exclusive limited period, promising to weave together a magical island experience. Every night until the end of August sees a special event take place in the luxurious gardens, with live music, exhibitions or DJs as part of the Summer Vibe programme. There’s always stimulation for the eyes and mind to be found at Agroturismo Atzaró. This summer, the hotel hosts exhibitions from internationally acclaimed photographer Jimmy Nelson, who’s bringing his ‘Homage to Humanity’ project to the space, as well as contemporary photographer Rohit Chawla, who’ll also be showcasing his work. As ever, Agroturismo Atzaró continues to forge the way with an innovative eye for detail that showcases all that’s wonderful about this island and everything it has to offer. Experiences don’t come any more authentic than this.

A midsummer night’s dream

Rare – because it’s only open at night during July and August, a true midsummer night’s dream. Beautiful – because have you seen Atzaró? And prized because it’s a sanctuary, attended only by those in the know. If David Attenborough did a documentary about restaurants his dulcet tones would turn positively excited about La Veranda on a summer’s night. Crisp white tablecloths are dressed with vases of wildflowers; lanterns swing from the branches and bushes in lush pockets of greenery. Huge circular pendant lights hang from the pergola casting a warm glow over the refined yet relaxed space, shadows from the palm trees are playfully reflected in the content faces of fellow diners. There’s something really special going on here, something that many attempt to imitate but few are able to achieve.

Starting with a cocktail is the perfect way to ease into the occasion. Resident mixologist and all round cocktail obsessive, Rubén Ruivo, presents a beautifully curated list of his greatest creations and classics. The Umami is concocted with premium sake infused with cucumber and a splash of Atzaro’s homemade organecello – like limoncello but made with oranges grown in the garden directly behind the restaurant. It goes perfectly with anything but comes into its own when accompanied by a sushi board. When ordering Rock & Ron make sure you watch the making. A cup is placed over burning cinnamon. A few slices of ginger, a splash of Kraken rum, a little cane sugar and a squeeze of lime are shaken with ice. As the cup is lifted, the smoky cinnamon aroma is captured by the icy liquid and topped with Thomas Henry ginger beer. A tiny cup of dehydrated pineapple is added as a sweet, crispy counterpart. Lift cup, sip, and relax…

The La Veranda menu has its roots in the Mediterranean with some delightful side trips through Asia and South America. Appetisers come under the title ‘Something to nibble’ and are straight up Spanish delicacies including Santoña anchovies, homemade croquetas, morcilla from Burgos, grilled red prawns and the highest quality hand sliced jamón. Enjoy these as a little pre-dinner snack with an aperitivo. Entrées are where things start to really infuse the Atzaró vibe. Bright beetroot and watermelon gazpacho with kefir and sauerkraut is refreshing and delicious. Sweet and savoury combine beautifully in the foie micuit with figs, onion jam and torrija – a traditional eggy toast. Three hearty salads are designed to be enjoyed by one or more, plus the creamy burratina makes it difficult for your dinner companions to keep their forks away.

Even though there are touches of the traditional about La Veranda, diners can feel free to break away from convention and order a bunch of mains to share at the table. The sushi boards are as varied as they are colourful and make a perfect beginning to the rest of the taste bud popping show. Don’t forget to order sushi with the aforementioned Umami cocktail – a match made in heaven. Moving right along to the ceviche, which is served in a whole fresh coconut shell where succulent sea bass and cubes of sweet potato swirl in a piquant and perfectly sharp chilled broth. The red tuna is tender and thinly sliced and comes resting on a dense dashi consommé accompanied by crispy sesame crackers. Order as much as the table can fit because the scallops and rotja are also divine.

Beef sirloin is served with three Jerusalem artichokes stuffed with a creamy filling sitting atop homemade kimchi – this dish is surely the La Veranda signature. Or perhaps La Veranda has created a whole menu of signature dishes when you consider the local sucking pig and the marinated rack of lamb. Plus everything is a work of art, even the olives and aioli comes out with the daintiest scattering of miniature red and purple petals. As if magic really does exist, an elegant gentleman sits alongside a young man with a guitar. A gentle beat emanates from his weathered hands. This enigmatic character begins to sing a Flamenco deeply rooted in the culture of Sa Penya – the neighbourhood under Dalt Villa where he resides. The ambience is electric with the knowledge that something unique and authentic is being transmitted via his heartfelt song.

Eventually the musicians move to the bar area where more cocktails, drinks and snacks are on offer at oversized sofas and beds. The atmosphere is so alive with joyfulness that it’s not long before everyone is up and dancing to shouts of olé. No doubt later on the resident DJ will continue the festivities but for now everyone is in the moment, one they know few other tourists will ever get to experience. Except the lucky ones, of course…

Made with love

The interior dining room glows with an antique chic, a dash of modern colonial and laidback Mediterranean style. Head chef Lucia Ferrer has spent the winter travelling and percolating ideas for the new season menu, which is as fresh and exciting as ever. “I love to travel,” says Lucia. “Every place I go I always bring something back with me and add our own Mediterranean touch, or really, I should say an Ibicenco touch.” The 2017 La Veranda menu is testament to her imaginative cuisine and illustrates her deep respect for the produce of the island. “When it comes down to it, I just love it here,” she says of her role in the restaurant. “Everything is made with love.” Which also pretty much sums up what Agroturismo Atzaró is all about.

New dishes on the menu this year cover the gamut of everyone’s preferred local ingredients. Grilled octopus has been a favourite of Mediterranean fishermen for millennia and Lucia’s version brings it full circle into the Atzaro vibe. Juicy, locally caught octopus sits on a bed of mashed yellow potatoes with tender vegetables, all of which are suffused with a smoky, chilli piquancy. It’s a classic dish brought to a whole new level. Another of Lucia’s favourites are the chicken tacos, a dish inspired by her travels through South and Central America. “We are very particular about the provenance of the chicken we use,” she says. “It is always free range, country raised. The tacos are so simple yet so tender.” They’re served with tomato tartar, fresh avocado and the sweetness of pineapple to bring out the flavours.

Sweet and delicate Santoña anchovies served with Arbequina infused tomatoes are another delicious example of a Spanish classic done to perfection. Lucia describes the Bluefin tuna from Galicia as “spectacular” and is particularly enamoured with this year’s local red prawns, which she sends out with potatoes and suquet. “We use produce from the island – a lot of it from our own gardens,” she says. “My inspiration comes from the natural flavours of local, seasonal produce. I love simple things.” This is Lucia’s fourth year at the helm of the La Veranda kitchen and she is as enthusiastic as ever. Overseeing the two daytime menus, plus events and fine dining offerings in July and August, she has developed a keen sense of what people are looking for. “It’s very intuitive,” she says of evolving the Atzaro menus. “This is my place. I instinctively know what is going to work”. This year, that means creating a new daytime menu that reflects the changing ways clients’ view food and wellbeing.

Working with Oliver Morgado Alfonso, a long-time friend and now collaborator, Lucia has launched a new daytime menu available on the terraces, in the pool area, spa and for delivery to the private villas of the hotel. The theme is based on the principles of Ayurveda, an ancient Hindu system of medicine that balances the body using food, herbs and conscious intent. It may sound complicated but the culinary results are completely sublime. “We put a lot of intention behind the preparation and development of each dish,” says Oliver. “Each ingredient carries a healing property and acts as preventative medicine.” Despite, or perhaps because of, this intention the menu is brimming with healthy, light and incredibly delicious dishes. “We wanted to continue on from the theme of wellness that stems from the Atzaró Spa,” adds Lucia. “Its about people relaxing, sharing a plate by the pool or on the terrace and knowing that it is good for them as well as being tasty.”

Contrary to preconceptions, Ayurveda does not mean vegetarian and the menu features a Vitamin C Antiox salad of langoustines with wakame seaweed, pomelo, edamame, spouts and chlorophyll alongside Oliver’s favourite Revitalising Cold Soup made with coconut, turmeric, garlic, ginger, avocado, and hemp salt. “It’s probiotic,” he says. “All the ingredients are in harmony both at a health level and a taste level.” Regular La Veranda diners can still get their classic Atzaró dishes, such as the juicy Hamburger Duo – one made with legumes and the other with ‘happy’ Wagyu beef. And the Peruvian Ceviche remains a lunchtime pleasure, as are the popular Beef Tacos and Falafel Royal. As always behind the innovation and imagination at La Veranda lies a Mediterranean heart and soul. Lucia sums the Atzaro concept perfectly: “In the end, people do want to try new things as well as their favourites. For me it is always about fresh, quality ingredients and love.”