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Living la vida local

The summer season as we know it has come to an end much sooner than usual in 2020, however for those who still have an October trip on the cards, all is not lost! The island has simply segued into winter mode a little earlier than expected, and if you’ve ever heard an Ibiza resident wax lyrical about the off-season, then you’ll know you’re in for an extra special treat. Our on-island team – all year-round locals themselves – have rounded up a list of the best places to dine in Ibiza this October. Fantastic food, both rustic and luxe settings, that same warm Ibiza service and no crowds – this month, it’s all about living (and dining) la vida local!

Breakfast: The best way to start to the day

In summer, islanders are usually up and off to work – perhaps with a quick homemade coffee and a tostada before hitting the road. In ‘winter’ however (yes, we know it’s autumn, but here in Ibiza, locals tend to simply split the year into two seasons, summer and winter), there’s plenty more time to treat yourself to the types of brekkie or brunch spreads you often see tourists sharing on Instagram – and thankfully, there are still quite a few places open that tick all the right boxes in terms of freshness, variety, quality and indeed, quantity! None of our team members can walk past a Passion Café – Marina Ibiza, Vara de Rey [pictured], San José and Santa Eulalia are all still open – in the morning without being tempted in by the scent of the island’s finest coffee, then staying for the mega breakfasts on offer. All types of pancakes, the island’s biggest avo toast menu, eggs aplenty, creative juices and smoothies, healthy bowls, corn fritters – you name it or you crave it, you’ll find it at Passion.

Meanwhile, over on the west coast of the island, there’s a new place in town that’s piqued our interest when it comes to brunch – Hawker Beach Club Ibiza looks over the beach of Cala de Bou and offers a creative breakfast and brunch fusion that crosses continents and cultures – from yoga brekkies and the classic full English, to New York style salmon bagels and then over to Latin America for arepas or Thailand for Yam Kai Do with a fried egg and back to the Med for a Spanish tortilla with jamon Iberico. There are only a few weeks left to try it, so be sure to book a table before October is out. In the village of Santa Gertrudis, Numero 74 L’Atelier is another breakfast favourite – fresh baked croissants and pastries, healthy bowls with tapioca or seasonal fruit, banana cake, Ibiza almond cake (we love cake for breakfast!), all available to eat in the sunny, spacious garden or take-away to sit on the beach. Just around the corner, at Wild Beets (another island institution when it comes to health and wellness), you can tuck into healthy and homemade, plant-based dishes such as blueberry porridge, almond and coconut raw porridge, chia breakfast bowls, eggless scrambles and so much more.

Beach lunches: Because the sun’s still shining!

Ibiza ‘winters’ are renowned for being filled with sunshine – apparently the sun shines on Ibiza for 300 days a year and aside from the odd monthly downpour, we often don’t see cloudy skies until at least February. All the more reason to live the beach life, and there are still plenty of amazing places to indulge in a long, luxurious seaside lunch – if you know where to look! You’ll need to be quick if you want to catch lunch at the iconic Amante Ibiza, which remains open until the end of this month, much to the delight of locals who can’t find the time to nab a table in the summer. Back towards Ibiza town, just a few minutes’ drive down the bumpy camino to the secluded cove od S’Estanyol, Cala Bonita also remains open (locals are hoping it will sustain its usual year-round hours), serving up some of the finest fresh Mediterranean fare right on the beach.

Over on the west coast, the stunning Cala Gracioneta Chiringuito [main photo] continues to impress locals and visitors alike daily with its Valencian style rice dishes and amazing grilled meats and fish – not to mention the beautiful views and relaxed ambience of the protected cove it presides over – reservations still highly recommended. And finally, on the south east coast of Ibiza, looking out over the sands of Es Cavallet and across to Dalt Vila, the family-run institution that is La Escollera [pictured] has always been a resident’s winter beach restaurant of choice – open 365 days a year and offering a combination of dishes based on decades-old family recipes and new contemporary creations (with a great selection for vegans). If you’re thinking to the future and wondering about Christmas in Ibiza, this is the place to be!

Campo classics: The countryside shines in autumn

When the seasons change (in this case we’ll concede to call it autumn), there’s nowhere more beautiful to be than the gorgeous Ibiza countryside. The light is just a little more golden, the air just a little more crisp (note, not cold!) and a breeze rustles the treetops with an air of romance that’s unlike the heavy, humid summer days and nights. It’s fair to say that the north of the island shines at this time of year and there’s an array of restaurants in the heart of the campo that remain open so you can dine beneath the trees, by fields of flowers (or sheep) or even right next to the organic garden where your food has been grown. La Paloma has long been a local’s favourite, from the days when it was a secret, until now, when it’s almost impossible to score a walk-in during summer. In the off season however, the pace is a lot slower – lazy lunches in the sunny garden from Wednesday to Sunday, or get cosy in the interior by night from Thursday to Saturday.

Keep driving north and take a right turn to follow the winding roads to luxury Agroturismo Atzaró, where the garden restaurant La Veranda offers the opportunity to sit beneath the shade of a vine-covered trellis, surrounded by beautiful lush lawns, orange groves and ancient olive trees. Farm-to-fork is the concept here, and you won’t find any fresher – the produce comes straight from the expansive Atzaró Vegetable Garden, right onsite. Back on the road, and just before you reach the village of San Juan, Shamarkanda offers a rustic hideaway, with an amazing fusion restaurant saluting the best of Asia and the Mediterranean alike, with live music on Sundays. And of course, one can’t visit San Juan without paying a visit to the iconic secret garden, The Giri Café [pictured] – whether by day or by night, the magic of this restaurant has been winning the hearts of island foodies for a decade now. Be sure to pay a visit before the season is up!

Date night: Where to snuggle up for winter romance

The arrival of winter in Ibiza normally gives couples an excuse to bunker down and Netflix and chill, but after experiencing a three-month lockdown right before summer, it’s easy to see why islanders in love (or those on the dating scene!) are keen to still spend their nights exploring the island. We’re not ready to stay home or inside just yet! Dining alfresco is still a possibility – though wrapping up warm is recommended, as restaurants can sadly no longer give clients blankets to keep warm due to the C-word – and with some of the most beautiful, and Instagrammable locations in the world on our doorstep, it’s not hard to find a place with cosy corners, great food and an intimate, romantic atmosphere to spend your date night.

La Mesa Escondida, housed within boutique hotel Petunia Ibiza, wins hands-down when it comes to views – the restaurant has a front row view of the mythical rock of Es Vedra, with fine Italian and Mediterranean food that equals its epic location. There are still a few weeks left to enjoy La Mesa, so be sure to check it out before it closes for the season. La Torre Ibiza, on the west coast of Ibiza, offers the double dreaminess of an Ibiza sunset – soundtracked by the best Balearic DJs no less – combined with fantastic food, and is the perfect place to while away an October evening. Back inland, on the famous San Juan restaurant road, the softly-lit space of Nagai [pictured] offers plenty of cosy corners perfect for lovers – especially for lovers of sushi and fine Japanese fusion cuisine. A newcomer on the Ibiza culinary scene is the in-house restaurant at Cas Gasi near Santa Gertrudis – now open to the public and helmed by one of Ibiza’s very finest chefs, David Reartes. Open all year round, the restaurant introduces a new level of gastronomy to Ibiza, one that no foodie should miss.

Group gatherings: Because we can’t do it in our homes!

At the moment, the current health and safety restrictions mean Ibiza homes can only host up to five people in total, which can put a dampener on group gatherings like birthdays or special occasions. And while restaurants also have limits on the amount of guests per table, there’s nothing to stop your friends being clever and booking multiple tables in one venue, right? (Let’s just keep that our little secret for now though). Some of our favourite places in Ibiza have menus that are ideal for sharing – and whether you’re a group or just a small table, it’s still nice to know that the age-old tradition of breaking bread with friends can still be enjoyed, even if it is on a slightly smaller scale.

For the ultimate in barbecues, we can’t go past the magical alfresco setting of Casa Maca [pictured], on the outskirts of Ibiza town and overlooking Dalt Vila – ideal for a sunny weekend lunch. If you’re looking for something more traditional, Tapas Ibiza – as the name suggests – in San Antonio serves up the finest selection of both typically Spanish and twists on tapas, and has long been loved by locals all over the island. In Santa Gertrudis, Bottega Il Buco remains the place to be seen (and to spot visiting A-listers and models – yes, even in October, you never know who you’ll be sitting next to!), snacking on focaccia by the slice by day or by night and sipping fine organic wines. Just a little further up north, Bambuddha never fails to satisfy, with its temple-like setting and amazing MediterrAsian menu, not to mention ‘all you can eat’ evenings and a big screen for the football. Back in Ibiza town, there’s no better place to share a meal with friends than Locals Only – how could we not congregate there, with a name like that? Of course, it’s not exclusive to islanders – rather, the name implies that citizens of the world should all feel welcome to dine here, and with amazing lunch specials, the freshest produce, a creative Italian-influenced menu, and a buzzing atmosphere at night thanks to its Plaza del Parque location, there’s all the more reason to go there, my dears…

Party time: Civilised and socially distant, of course

We’re all very much aware that 2020 is the year that Ibiza lost its famous nightlife scene, however that doesn’t mean islanders weren’t allowed to have fun! It just had to be pre-arranged, pre-booked and partaken in a slightly more civilised and socially distant manner – with a much earlier bedtime than many of us are used to. Well, they say change is a good thing and the only thing we can do with these government mandated changes is try to look on the bright side, and from our perspective, the bright side is that some of our favourite, more intimate places, remain open and there’s more space and time for us to enjoy them in the winter!

Pikes has always been an island institution when it comes to hedonism, and they’ve managed to keep the hotel’s authentic spirit alive this year no matter what restriction has been thrown at them. There’s just one week left to experience the magic – be it indulgent gourmet pizzas and burgers, washed down with champagne and cocktails as you chair dance on the sunset terrace or by the pool, a decadent evening meal in the hot pink Pamelas restaurant, watching the inimitable blondewearingblack sing live on Friday night, tucking into the final Sunday Roast soundtracked by The Brothers Grim and special guests next weekend – make the most of it before winter hibernation sets in! Of course, there’s always good vibes to be had at Bambuddha’s in-house bar, Tantra Cocktail Palace – where you can sip on bespoke cocktails or fine wines before or after your MediterrAsian feast, but for an all-year-round haunt with a very Ibiza twist, we can’t go past our favourite cocktail bar, Paradise Lost [pictured], in the back streets of the gypsy quarter in Ibiza town. Now serving up tasty quesadillas, so you don’t need to quaff your cocktails before rushing off for dinner, the little bar with a big heart is one of the last bastions of hedonism in Ibiza town – again, socially distanced, closing up a little earlier than usual (but opening earlier too!) and with lots of hand sanitiser of course!

A resident’s guide to Ibiza restaurants – Part 2

This week saw Ibiza shift into Phase Three of the Spanish government’s de-escalation plan, which gives islanders the freedom to enjoy the best Ibiza has to offer – as much of it that is open, for now, that is. More and more Ibiza restaurants are opening their doors, in a slightly more limited capacity and adhering to the new health, safety and social distancing protocols – we say the more the merrier. Below is part two of our two-part guide to the best places to eat in Ibiza in June, from Dalt Vila and Marina Botafoch to Santa Gertrudis, San Juan, San Lorenzo and San Rafael, plus more – watch this space for the best beach restaurants next week.

Can Mimosa Ibiza, Santa Gertrudis, Centre

When Pedro Cervero, Holly Rees Thomas and chef Tim Payne opened their gorgeous finca restaurant Can Mimosa Ibiza this time last year, they had planned to become a year-round hub for island residents seeking great quality food, warm service and an all-round laid-back ambience that felt like the Ibiza of old. The restaurant celebrated its first birthday this week, after working hard throughout the lockdown to provide home delivery to hungry islanders in isolation – from Sunday roasts to barbecue packs and ready-made meals. Thankfully now, Can Mimosa Ibiza is now open to one and all, from Tuesday to Saturday from 1pm to 5pm for lunch, then again from 7pm to 11pm for dinner. Sundays is an all-day lounge-around lunch affair from 1pm for the roast and barbecue. There’s a daily menu del dia, a new seasonal evening menu and all-day fish and chips on Fridays, all to be enjoyed in the charming garden – its status as island social hub has been immediately resumed.

Visit the Can Mimosa website to read more and request a table.

Nagai, San Lorenzo, North East

From week one of the lockdown, the team at Nagai remained busy feeding Ibiza’s sushi and fusion cuisine lovers – albeit via home delivery. These days, Chef Reina is still in her kitchen but now customers are allowed to come to her, from 7.30pm to late from Monday to Saturday. Start with a bespoke cocktail by the bar, then take a seat on the starlit terrace, where you can feel right at home as you choose between the island’s best sushi and sashimi, and signature Nagai dishes such as Japanese curry, tempura langostinos and veggies, fennel tartare, agedashi tofu, beef pad kra pao, black cod, karaage and so much more. There’s a true sense of community amongst the Nagai regulars – you can be sure to see someone you know, in addition to being warmly welcomed like an old friend by the team.

Kasamore, Mikasa Ibiza, Marina Botafoch, Ibiza

Perched on an unassuming little corner on the cusp of Marina Botafoch, Mikasa Ibiza is a boutique hotel that welcomes islanders – and later, people from all over the globe – to enjoy its two chic terraces, complete with views over the Marina and to Dalt Vila. The venue, which is normally open all year round, reopened its restauarnt Kasamore last week to the happiness of residents looking for a place to enjoy sundowner cocktails and Mediterranean classics like mussels with marinara sauce, grilled fresh carabineros, Andaluz style calamari or a hearty Burrata salad. There’s also delicious rice dishes, such as lobster risottos, mushroom and truffle risotto or linguini with pesto, plus fresh fish, succulent cuts of meat and more. A daily menu del dia is an affordable way to tuck into three courses, while bespoke cocktails and a great wine list are ideal to wash it down. Be sure to either arrive or stay for sunset – the views are incredible.

Shamarkanda, San Juan, North West

Like a glowing beacon on the left hand side of the road as you’re heading up to San Juan, Shamarkanda is a fusion restaurant of epic proportions, offering a soulful collection of dishes from all around the world, hopping from cultures, flavours and textures for a one-of-a-kind dining experience in Ibiza. Now open from Fridays to Sundays, from midday until late, the gorgeous space is ideal for catching up with friends for a sunny lunch or a decadent dinner alike. Fridays in June are ‘Gastro Fridays’, with a special set menu on offer for just 18€, designed to showcase the new 2020 menu. On Sundays, enjoy live music in the garden – which has been laid out to respect the new social distancing measures of course – from 4.30pm. Reservations are essential.

Wild Beets, Santa Gertrudis, Centre

If comfort eating during lockdown has got you seeking a more healthy alternative back out in the ‘real’ world, or if you’re naturally a vegan or plant-based food enthusiast, Wild Beets in Santa Gertrudis serves up some of the most creative and taste sensational healthy food in Ibiza. An institution in Ibiza for its iPurify juice cleanses, raw desserts and of course, its tasty plant-based menu, Wild Beets is also a hub for parents on the post-school run hunt for somewhere to catch up with friends, check emails or just enjoy a great meal. While school runs are a thing of the distant past right now, that’s no reason not to return to your favourite healthy eatery – open from 10am until 8pm daily, plus… kids are always welcome!

Visit the White Ibiza restaurant guide to read more and request a table at Wild Beets

Casa Maca, Ibiza, South East

In just two short winter seasons (literally in the case of 2020, which was unexpectedly cut m-u-c-h shorter than the first), Casa Maca’s in-house restaurant has established itself as the place to eat, drink and socialise in the off-season, as well as in summer. The impressive open-air barbecue is the major drawcard, along with fresh veggies plucked directly from the onsite farm. Dine alfresco on the fairy-lit terraces, which make it easy to be responsible and socially distanced from the next-door table, and take in the iconic view of Dalt Vila in the distance – if that’s not enough to make you swear allegiance to your island home after all these months indoors, well… perhaps the Balearic soundtrack will help you get a little teary-eyed. Just a few minutes outside of Ibiza town, Casa Maca has plenty of parking and is easy to access from anywhere on the island – opening on Friday June 12, 2020, reservations are highly recommended. For the next few weeks, the restaurant will be open on Friday, Saturday and Sunday evenings from 7pm.

Visit the White Ibiza restaurant guide to read more and request a table at Casa Maca

Finca La Plaza, Santa Gertrudis, Centre

Just a little over a week until hip Santa Gertrudis hangout Finca La Plaza reopens its stylish little picket gate to island residents. Put Friday June 19, 2020 in your diary – and we’d advise you to make a reservation too, as openings are proving to be very popular right now – and call on your nearest and dearest in Ibiza to join you in the beautiful garden restaurant, where festoon lights hang casually between palm trees and the scent of the grill wafting out from the kitchen is one of the most deliciously tantalizing aromas you’ve ever experienced. With a Mediterranean focus, all dishes are made using season, local and organic produce where possible. This is not just another farm-to-table claim to fame – Finca La Plaza work with local farmers to source their high quality payes chicken, spring lamb and more, only looking to the mainland and beyond when it can’t be found in Ibiza. Support our local farmers, by supporting the restaurants they supply.

The Giri Café, San Juan, North West

It’s been a long time between lunches at The Giri Café – the gorgeous garden restaurant in the heart of San Juan in the island’s north – and the news that it is reopening just in time for the famous Noche de San Juan on Tuesday June 23, 2020 has got island residents buzzing. While the charming little village won’t be able to host its regular fire-jumping Midsummer celebrations to celebrate the night of its patron saint, the restaurant’s re-opening will no doubt be lit – after the initial opening dinner, The Giri Café will be open from Wednesday to Sunday, for lunch and dinner. In addition to the beautiful garden space, the restaurant also boasts a spacious – and easily socially distanced – interior that’s ideal for those nights when it’s still a little cooler up north after dark. Reservations recommended.

La Veranda, San Lorenzo, North East

There are only a few tourist-free days for Ibiza residents to enjoy all the farm-to-fork goodness at La Veranda, the stunning countryside restaurant housed within the iconic Atzaró Agroturismo. When the hotel reopens on June 26, 2020, so too does the restaurant and its stunning onsite farm, bringing back lovely sunny lunches looking out over the orange grove. Of course, that’s not to say you can’t book a table at La Veranda once the borders are open – Atzaró has always welcomed locals and been a much-loved resident’s hangout over the years – it’s just that this may be a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity (we really hope it’s only once!) to simply relax with just your family, friends and fellow islanders and really savour these authentic Ibiza experiences without any rush or stress. Only 50% of the restaurant space will be used during this time too, so reservations are recommended.

Visit the White Ibiza restaurant guide to read more and request a table at La Veranda

Award-winning Japanese cuisine

For devotees of celebrated Ibiza restaurant Nagai, it comes as no surprise to hear the World Luxury Restaurant Awards recently crowned the eatery the best Japanese restaurant in southern Europe – for fans, it’s recognition long overdue. But for the humble creators behind the restaurant’s success, it was an unexpected accolade that came out of the blue, albeit a welcome one. “We really weren’t expecting it, but we won and it’s incredible!” says founder and head chef, Reina Nagai, with palpable glee in her eyes. “It really came out of the blue,” adds Eleonora Carapellotti, fellow founder. Specialising in Japanese fusion cuisine, Nagai – which Eleonora and Reina opened in 2011 on the famed San Juan ‘restaurant road’ alongside co-founder Melchior Arnold – overflows with traditional Japanese ambience combined with flecks of Ibicenco charm. The food, of course, is standout, but to the creators of the venue, it’s the whole package that counts – the welcome, the service and the atmosphere are all equally as important as the food. No doubt it is this ethos that secured their newly acquired title.

“Since the beginning, I’ve always tried to create a family with our team,” explains Eleonora. “I believe when people come to eat here it’s about the experience – they have to feel at home.” Indeed, having founded restaurants all over the world alongside her brother, Luigi, who also has a keen ear for music, Eleonora places a huge amount of emphasis on a friendly, professional and close-knit team, and she knows exactly what she’s looking for. “This year we’re really happy with the team in the kitchen,” she says. “When Reina and I went to collect the award in Hanoi, it was the first time Reina has been able to leave the kitchen, and that was the best feeling for us. We feel like we’ve really built something stable.” Establishing the perfect, accomplished team may have taken time, but at Nagai, Reina’s food has been a constant. A former professional snowboarder, she turned her hand to cooking at the age of 27, when a chance encounter led her to meet Eleonora in Koh Phangan, Thailand and she decided to hang up her board and pick up a knife instead. This was no coincidence – her father has owned and run a restaurant in Nagoya, Japan for over 50 years – but it was the first time Reina decided to turn her love of cooking into a full-time job.

“I grew up with cooking,” she explains. “Since I was three years old my father would take me to the fish market with him. He never taught me, but I would watch him and I learnt from that.” Clearly in the genes, Reina discovered she was naturally gifted with food, and this journey led her from Thailand to the shores of Ibiza. Now, she’s passionate about her craft. “Cooking is a bit like painting – it’s the taste, the smell, and the visions on the plate – it’s about creating something new each season,” she explains. This attitude means Reina brings a fresh perspective to the Nagai menu each year – even when regulars are reluctant to abandon their favourite dishes – and her approach to constant evolution has earned Reina’s cuisine fans from all across the globe. “We had international support in the Awards,” explains Eleonora. “People from all over the world voted for us and I think this really helped.” Nevertheless, Reina remains coy in accepting praise. “It’s the ingredients that do the talking,” she says. “I respect the materials more than my skills.”

Perhaps this humble approach to providing an experience is really at the core of Nagai’s magic, and the primary reason why it won the prestigious title of best Japanese restaurant in southern Europe. There’s no doubt Eleonora and Reina go about things differently than how you might expect from an Ibiza restaurant; it’s clear in addition to delivering culinary sensations on the plate, there’s something else at work here. “We try to offer all the things you should enjoy in life,” says Eleonora with a smile. “Good food, good wine, good music and eating under the stars.” What more can be said than that?